Marusya, in the second photo - this is a huge shawl collar, which is close to the hood in size. It is usually cut in one piece with shelves and stitched down the middle of the back. The first one has a simple hood instead of a collar with one seam in the middle of the back.
Similar patterns were found in Burda.

An example of constructing a hood according to Lin Jacques.
Fantasy hoods are modeled by draping the fabric directly on the head, without making any constructions. Therefore, we will consider the simplest types of hoods.

Classic hood.
This model is shown in Fig. 545.

Take additional measurements:
1 - head circumference. The measurement is taken freely, without tension (for example, 60 cm);
2 - head height. Measure in a straight line from the back from the middle of the back neckline (notch A) to the top of the head (for example, 24 cm; notch B);
3 - width of the top of the head. Measure without taking into account hair volume (measurement is taken at the top of the head at the back).

To construct a hood pattern, draw lines for the middle of the back, neck and shoulder from the base pattern of the type of clothing that requires a hood (for example, a coat).
Draw a slightly concave shoulder dart from the neckline with a 1 cm solution and a length of 7 cm (Fig. 546). Extend the neck and shoulder lines by the amount of the dart opening. Connect the back and front patterns along the lines of the shoulder sections and draw the neck line and part of the middle front. Draw a perpendicular to the mid-front line, as shown by the dashed line, and place a notch x at a distance of 2 cm from the neckline. Connect the notch x with a smooth line to the back neckline at the shoulder cut.
From notch A upward, set aside a segment AB equal to the measurement of the height of the head plus 2 cm (Fig. 547). Through point B, draw a horizontal line to the left equal to half the width of the upper part of the head (measurement 3). Mark notch E.
Then, from notch B downwards, set aside a segment equal to 1/3 of the circumference of the head (measurement 1), and place notch C (for example, 60:3 = 20 cm). Through notch C, draw a horizontal line to the left and put on it the value obtained above plus 1 cm (notch D). Fold the paper along the ED line and move the BE, BC and CO lines to the left of it. Place notches G and F.

Finish the edge of the hood by connecting the D and X notches. smooth line.
Depending on the method of connecting both parts of the hood (in the middle of the top or in the middle of the back), indicate the direction of the grain thread on one of these lines. The lining of the hood from the main fabric can be placed over its entire surface, using the resulting pattern, or only on the part visible when lowered, enclosed between notches A, C, D and x, with a wide allowance. In this case, you can cut the lining fabric under the rest.

Hood-collar.
On the basic pattern of the jacket or coat, draw a line for the neck of the hood, one-piece with a rim. The length of the hood neckline should be equal to the length of the neckline of the base pattern (Fig. 552, notch 1).

Continue the line of the middle of the collar upward and set aside a segment AB 35 cm long. Through point B to the right, draw a perpendicular to line AB 30 cm long and place a notch C. Continue the neck line to the right from the middle of the front by 5 cm and mark notch D). By connecting notches D and C, you get the front edge of the hood. Continuing it downwards, you can get the model's lapel line.
Lobar thread c. This hood can go down the middle of the hood at the back or in the middle of the top.

The cold months are the time to think about what elegant and unusual headdress to add to our wardrobe this time. This time we decided to please those who like headdresses like a hood and a scarf and offer for your consideration such a new product as a Wolf hood pattern.

This brand appeared quite recently. It was founded by the creator of the Wolka hood scarf, the famous Russian actress Ekaterina Volkova.

The temptation is great to purchase such a miracle of direct brand quality already in a ready-made, original and unique form. By the way, you can do this at http://www.wolkawear.ru/. However, if there is no opportunity to please yourself with such a new thing from the manufacturer, but you have cutting and sewing skills, then you can try to reproduce the hood yourself. Fortunately, there is already a ready-made pattern for the Wolf’s hood (it is given in one size, taking into account who the hood scarf comes in one size and is easily “adjusted” to the head circumference of the one who will wear it).

The Wolf hood pattern is given in centimeters without taking into account seam allowances.

We emphasize that the Wolka hood is double-sided - that is, it has an inner and outer side. In this case, the side parts should be in 4 copies. You can make a tuck, but this is not a prerequisite - as you prefer. The loop for the fastener is inserted into the seam of the right half of the hood. The location of the button should be determined already during fitting of the finished product.

Wolf hood pattern: another option

Ekaterina Volkova herself says that her hooded scarf is so versatile that it can suit any look, season and weather, and it’s impossible to argue with that. Therefore, what material to sew the halves of your Wolves from is up to you to decide in accordance with your wishes and needs. It could be easy option for a summer evening made of silk and lace, or maybe an insulated winter option - made of fleece or even fur.

Clothing styles with a hood appeared at a time when fashion was not even thought about. In the Middle Ages, tailors already knew how to sew a cape with a hood, since this type of clothing was in demand by all segments of the population - commoner vagabonds and nobility.

Covering their faces with hoods, noble lords seduced poor girls, and tramps made many-mile treks. This type of clothing was forbidden to be worn by persons who did not profess the Christian religion - therefore, people of other faiths were immediately visible.

In 1527, a convenient addition to cloaks and capes began to be called a hood - by analogy with the French hood.

Currently, this item of clothing is still popular. It can be functional and be decorative decoration. They are especially often supplemented sportswear, whose motto is practicality and convenience.

Constructing a pattern

Before sewing a poncho or a mantle with a hood, you need to learn how to build a pattern:

• measure the circumference of the head and the distance from the top of the head to the joint of the shoulder (this is the easiest way to create a pattern);
• the drawing is built from the bottom corner;
• 2 lines are drawn from the point at right angles - to the right and up;
• from the starting point for all sizes, mark 4 cm up and 1 cm to the right from it (to avoid confusion, this point is designated B).
• measure the length of the product’s back neckline and front part – for those unfamiliar with sewing;
• from point B, draw a segment to the intersection with the already drawn lower leg of the right angle - the length of this segment is equal to the sum of the length of the front and back neck plus 3 cm for the dart;
• to determine the location of the dart, mark a distance from point A equal to the length of the back neck + 1.5 cm - this one and a half cm is half the dart;
• The height of the dart is 8-10 cm. This distance is laid at a right angle. Having marked 1.5 cm on both sides, circle them - you get an image of a dart;
• the height of the product should be no less than the length of the head + 3 cm. If you want volume, add more to increase;
• width is calculated - 1/3 head circumference + 4-9 cm;
• the width of the hood is laid at a right angle from its height, a rectangle is built;
• the top edge of the product is drawn in it. It is made straight or drawn according to a pattern;
• to the left of the corner downwards mark 1.5-2 cm, and connect it with a slightly concave line to the end of segment C1.

How to sew a hood with your own hands?

• The production of clothing accessories begins with the construction of a pattern;
• Then it is transferred to the fabric, not forgetting about the darts. If you plan to sew from a whole piece, then the fabric is folded when laying out; from 2, it is sewn along the central seam before working with the parts;
• If the material is soft, it is advisable to glue the middle with an adhesive gasket - dublerin. To prevent it from fraying, the edges of the dublerin are processed using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch;
• The darts are sewn together, the parts are folded face to face and stitched;
• The product is steamed, the seam is ironed;
• If necessary, the hood was planned with a lining, make up a pattern for it. The existing dimensions are reduced by the amount of facing - 8 cm. The lining is sewn with darts, ironing the seams;
• The facing is marked on the fabric from which the hood was made. Strip width 10 cm;
• The product is turned inside out and the facing is attached;
• The excess fabric is cut off, not forgetting to add 1.5 cm - this is necessary in the future to sew the hood to the product;
• Loops are sewn to the edge of the facing, thanks to which the fashionable item of clothing will attach to the item for which it was intended. Buttons are sewn to the fastening points;
• After trying on, making sure that nothing will have to be re-stitched, you can already sew the main part and the lining. After stitching, the hood is turned out through a hole in the seam - this is how a pillowcase is put on a pillow;
• Then the unclosed edge is processed and a finishing line is passed along the entire front edge. If necessary, an edging is adjusted to it.

There is no need to solve the problem of how to sew a raincoat or coat with a hood. The hood can be attached to any product.

Products with hoods

It is not difficult to understand how to sew a hoodie using the already proposed algorithm. But in order to sew a poncho with a hood yourself, you don’t even have to make a pattern.

Required materials and tools:

• a piece of square fabric – 120cm x 120cm;
• separate pieces of fabric - 60x60 and a little more for facings;
• scissors;
• sewing machine.

1. the square is folded diagonally twice to form a triangle;
2. an acute angle is cut along an arc so that the head fits into the resulting hole;
3. a 60x60 square piece is folded in half to form a triangle and sewn perpendicular to the folded edge. Turn it inside out - the hood is ready;
4. a facing is cut out from a small piece, the blank is processed, a piece of fabric about 8 cm wide is sewn on the bottom side of the product, and then carefully hemmed to the poncho from the inside.

The poncho with a pointed hood is ready. The facing can be decorative or made from the same material.

Fur products, which include fur coats, are purchased for a single year. When buying, they usually try to choose long models in order to feel like a “lady”. And then it turns out that a long fur coat is uncomfortable. It interferes when traveling in your own car and in public transport.

When a fur coat is shortened, there are pieces left that are a pity to throw away.

Of these, a removable hood for a fur coat:

• the construction of the pattern is carried out according to the already described scheme, but at least 14 cm is added to the height - the fur conceals the distance;
• there is no need to try to arrange the pieces so as to get a solid product. If it is sewn from halves, the hood will fit better;
• lining is required. It can be made from fleece or satin. It is desirable that the color of the lining of the fur coat and the hood match;
• fur is easier to cut with a blade;
• Before final stitching, parts of the hood are swept away from both sides, the fibers are carefully straightened;
• on allowances and darts the fur is cut through;
• It is unlikely that there is a special overlocker or machine for sewing fur products at home. The hood will have to be sewn over the edge by hand with a sharp needle. The lining is stitched on a machine, folded, and also stitched by hand;
• the lining is sewn on, then the product is turned inside out, the edge is processed and the loops are sewn on.

Making a hood is not difficult, even if you have no sewing experience. To do this, you just need to be patient and be careful. The item will look good if all the seams are carefully processed.

Hello, dear blog readers. I hope you have missed our articles on the topic of leisure and hobbies a little. Today I want to talk about hats again. In the last article we talked, and today I want to introduce you to a new trend among hats.

Communicating with friends and acquaintances, I came to the conclusion that not all women like the usual hats, and there are many reasons that do not allow them to wear them in everyday life. For example, fear of ruining your hair, headaches when wearing it, or lack of choice when purchasing. What to do?

Quite unexpectedly, I came across a very interesting model of headdress, which has already become a trend in Russia. And I immediately thought that this version of the headdress would definitely be useful and would be liked by many.

The famous actress Ekaterina Volkova came up with this headdress and created a brand in her name, which is called Wolka. If you are not yet familiar with him, then this will be a pleasant surprise for you.

If you list all the advantages of the Wolf's hood, you'll get an impressive list. Here are just a few of the most important ones, in my opinion:

• unusual and unique headdress
• emphasizes femininity
• easy to put on, you can put it around your neck without taking it off, for example, indoors
• individual unique design for each model
• Surely no one will have something like this
• goes well with dresses and sporty ones with style
• your hair doesn't get damaged like hats do
• in cold weather it provides shelter from the wind

This is how Catherine herself talks about her hood.

For those who wish, but are not ready to purchase the famous Wolka hood from the author, I suggest reading this article to the end. I thought that some of you would probably want to sew such a hood with your own hands. So buy it beautiful fabric and sew a new fashionable warm headdress for yourself. The pattern of the model is universal for all sizes. Some cutting, sewing and design skills will of course be needed.

When sewing my hood, I used the pattern below. The pattern seemed close to the original to me.

I think for those who sew it will not be difficult to understand the sewing technology. I would like to note that the hood is double-sided, which means the details are cut out in 2 copies from different fabrics.

For each layer you need to cut out 1 insert piece and 2 side pieces. The seams do not need to be processed, as they will not be visible in the finished product. This is convenient for those who do not have an overlocker or a machine with a zigzag stitch.

The only thing I would like to add on my own. Sew the loop immediately on the right side before turning the product inside out, but I recommend sewing on the button after trying it on. This will allow you to adjust the tension and placement of the hood on your head.

Wolka hood pattern (not original)

The pattern was taken from the site http://blogportnoy.ru

What fabrics should I use to sew a hood?

There are many options for using different textures and for every taste. Lace with wool, knitwear, silk, and fleece look great. I recommend choosing fabric for sewing a hood based on what time of year and for what occasion you plan to wear it.

The hood is a necessary “option” for such Please note that hoods may be different shapes and size. clothing such as jackets, raincoats, sweatshirts, sportswear and winter wear. Hoods, in addition to their functionality, can become a decoration for clothing, since hoods are often embroidered, stitched, brightly lined, or the edge of the hood is trimmed with fur.

It is very easy to create a hood pattern and we will show you how to do it. Please note that hoods can be of different shapes and sizes - close-fitting, semi-fitting, oversized, fastened to the neck with a zipper or buttons, with a clasp, without a clasp, etc.

Based on the base pattern of the hood, we modeled 2 models of the hood - a hood sewn into the neck with a fastener and a hood with an insert in the center, decorated with embroidery.

Marusya, in the second photo - this is a huge shawl collar, which is close to the hood in size. It is usually cut in one piece with shelves and stitched down the middle of the back. The first one has a simple hood instead of a collar with one seam in the middle of the back.
Similar patterns were found in Burda.

An example of constructing a hood according to Lin Jacques.
Fantasy hoods are modeled by draping the fabric directly on the head, without making any constructions. Therefore, we will consider the simplest types of hoods.

Classic hood.
This model is shown in Fig. 545.

Take additional measurements:
1 - head circumference. The measurement is taken freely, without tension (for example, 60 cm);
2 - head height. Measure in a straight line from the back from the middle of the back neckline (notch A) to the top of the head (for example, 24 cm; notch B);
3 - width of the top of the head. Measure without taking into account hair volume (measurement is taken at the top of the head at the back).

To construct a hood pattern, draw lines for the middle of the back, neck and shoulder from the base pattern of the type of clothing that requires a hood (for example, a coat).
Draw a slightly concave shoulder dart from the neckline with a 1 cm solution and a length of 7 cm (Fig. 546). Extend the neck and shoulder lines by the amount of the dart opening. Connect the back and front patterns along the lines of the shoulder sections and draw the neck line and part of the middle front. Draw a perpendicular to the mid-front line, as shown by the dashed line, and place a notch x at a distance of 2 cm from the neckline. Connect the notch x with a smooth line to the back neckline at the highest point of the shoulder cut.
From notch A upward, set aside a segment AB equal to the measurement of the height of the head plus 2 cm (Fig. 547). Through point B, draw a horizontal line to the left equal to half the width of the upper part of the head (measurement 3). Mark notch E.
Then, from notch B downwards, set aside a segment equal to 1/3 of the circumference of the head (measurement 1), and place notch C (for example, 60:3 = 20 cm). Through notch C, draw a horizontal line to the left and put on it the value obtained above plus 1 cm (notch D). Fold the paper along the ED line and move the BE, BC and CO lines to the left of it. Place notches G and F.

Finish the edge of the hood by connecting the D and X notches. smooth line.
Depending on the method of connecting both parts of the hood (in the middle of the top or in the middle of the back), indicate the direction of the grain thread on one of these lines. The lining of the hood from the main fabric can be placed over its entire surface, using the resulting pattern, or only on the part visible when lowered, enclosed between notches A, C, D and x, with a wide allowance. In this case, you can cut the lining fabric under the rest.

Hood-collar.
On the basic pattern of the jacket or coat, draw a line for the neck of the hood, one-piece with a rim. The length of the hood neckline should be equal to the length of the neckline of the base pattern (Fig. 552, notch 1).

Continue the line of the middle of the collar upward and set aside a segment AB 35 cm long. Through point B to the right, draw a perpendicular to line AB 30 cm long and place a notch C. Continue the neck line to the right from the middle of the front by 5 cm and mark notch D). By connecting notches D and C, you get the front edge of the hood. Continuing it downwards, you can get the model's lapel line.
Lobar thread c. This hood can go down the middle of the hood at the back or in the middle of the top.

First, let's talk about building a hood, which is perhaps the simplest (both in construction and in processing).

I want to clarify a little before I get down to business.
This hood can be modified, and various styles are possible based on it.

And the construction of the hood is as follows and this is the hood pattern diagram:

1. Construct a right angle at point O.

2. Find the position of the stitching line in the neck:
from point O upward we lay off a segment O-KO equal to 4-5 cm (depending on this value
the amount of lift of the hood).

3. From the KO point to the right we set aside a value equal to 0-1 cm (It depends on this figure
Will there be a outlet in the center, at the neck, in the hood? If there is a tap, then the hood
It will fit better and go around the back of the head). Let's put point K.

4. From point K, with a radius equal to the width of the hood (length of the back neck + length
front neck + Ppos + tuck solution) along the stitching line we make a notch on
horizontal line coming from point O - we get point K1,
where Ppos = 0.5-1 cm, tuck solution = 1.5-3 cm.
We take the neck lengths from the base drawing.

5. Connect point K with point K1 and lay off a segment K-K2 on it to the right, equal to
neck length + (Ppos + tuck solution)/2

6. From point K2 we restore the perpendicular upward to line KK1, along which
set aside 1-1.5 and put point K21.

7. The stitching line passes through points K, K21, K1.

8. On the perpendicular from point K2 we set aside the length of the dart 8-12 cm, and from point K21
To the left and to the right we set aside 1/2 of the tuck solution. We decorate the sides of the dart.

9. Hood height: Section KO-K3 = Vk + (1-5 cm) = Vgol + (1-5 cm),
where Vk is the height of the hood, Vgol is the height of the head.

10. From point K3 to the right we set aside a distance equal to Ogol/3 + (5-9 cm)
and put point K4,where Ogol is head circumference.

11. From point K3, draw a bisector down to the right, equal to 3.5-6 cm, and place point K31.

12. From point K4 down the perpendicular we lay a segment equal to 0-2 cm, we get
point K41.

We design the upper and occipital sections according to the model through points K41, K31, K.
We decorate the front edge with a smooth line through points K1 and K41.

Hoods built using this pattern look like this:

Construction of a hood-collar pattern in women's clothing

In winter, you really want warmth and comfort, and what else can warm you up in a coat more than a hood-collar?

It's warm and cozy. No frost is scary with it!

Such a hood can be built either as a one-piece hood with a shelf of the product, or as a cut-off hood.

Measurements for drawing:

Ogol - head circumference. We measure through the most protruding point of the back of the head and the center of the frontal tuberosities. We close the ribbon at the front.
R - height. Vsht - height of the cervical point.
We measure vertically the distance from the floor to the 7th cervical vertebra.
Head height - head height. Equal to (P - Vsht) + Pvgol, where Pvgol is the allowance for the height of the head.
Shvch - width of the upper part of the head = 0.25*Ogol.

1. To construct a drawing of the hood-collar on paper, trace the shelf pattern.
We lay the back pattern so that the tops of the neck of the shelf and back are
combined, and so that the shoulder section of the back is a continuation of the shoulder section of the shelf.

2. The middle of the back should lie parallel to the middle of the front, the dart from the shoulder
We transfer the cut of the back to the cut of the back neck and outline it.

3. From the middle of the back neck line upwards in a straight line we lay off a segment equal to
measuring the height of the head + allowance, we get point 1.

4. Through the resulting point 1, draw a horizontal line to the left and right and lay it on it
to the left 3 cm, put point 2.

5. From point 2 to the right we lay off a segment equal to twice the width of the upper part
heads, put point 3.

6. We connect the resulting point 3 with the cut of the side.

7. The corner at point 2 can be left unchanged or rounded as desired.

The construction of the hood-collar pattern is very simple and, it seems to me, even beginners can do it!

Collar pattern, unlike the pattern of a regular hood, has a more airy shape. Well, not even airy, but it turns out to be some kind of romantic And playful looking. Hood collar It is a regular hood pulled into a collar.Although, there are times when you can slightly expand the hood to maintain the shape of the hood itself and form a gather on it.

But in this case it will no longer be a collar. Here you can’t see how the hood looks on the head even upon closer examination. I thought... Or maybe this model - transforming model. Those. how is it shown. The fact is that in the description of the model it even says: “ The volume of the collar can be changed using a braid secured with stoppers", but not a word is written about the presence of a hood. Here I indicated where, approximately, the hood is stitched in order to insert a ribbon for gathering (purple color of the line):

This transformer has two different positions possible.

First position: you have a jacket with an unruched hood.

Second position: you have a jacket with a gathered collar.

And this method is very simple - the hood pattern can be constructed using these calculations in just 10 - 15 minutes.

Everything is extremely simple!

Construction of the hood pattern:

1. Based on the drawing of the front, set aside a segment A4O to the left, equal to the width of the back neck (8 cm).

2. From point O, draw a line up and put 4 - 6 cm on it, we get point Z2.

3. Connect point Z2 with point A31.

4. From point Z2, perpendicular to Z2-A31, draw a straight line upward, on which we set aside the height of the stand, which is equal to 3 cm. We get point Z3.

5. From point Z3 up the line we set aside a distance equal to 7 - 12 cm (the width of the collar in the middle), and put point Z4.

6. From point Z2 to the neck line, draw a tangent; the point of tangency is F6.

7. In the middle of the segment Z2-F6, put a point at, from which we draw a perpendicular to the right and put 1.5 cm along it, put a point at 1. Through points Z2, v1, F6, A6 and further until the collar flies away, to point L, draw a line for sewing in the collar. Design of the departure line according to the model.

8. From point 33, smoothly draw the bend line of the collar stand, parallel to the stitching line.

9. Based on the “shawl”, you can build a hood, in this case, set aside 35-40 cm up from point Z2, and design the hood according to the model.

The hood pattern looks like this:

The model is very beautiful and simple, mainly used in coats.

Looks amazing. By changing some values, you can create your own unique copy. For example, you can change the width of the side or the size and shape of the hood itself.

Construction and pattern of a women's hood of a classic shape

This hood, although classic, has several design options.

Below you will find construction and pattern of a women's hood of a classic shape.

The volume of this hood is quite large, so this cut is suitable even for fur coats.

It is built on the drawing of the neck of the product.

The shape of the line for sewing the hood into the neck and the line of the neck itself are the same.

To construct the drawing, we take patterns for the front and back. We transfer the dart from the shoulder section of the back to the neckline, and combine the patterns with the shoulder sections.

Point A is the middle of the hood on the back neck line.

Point B is the lowest point of the front corner of the hood.

Constructing a pattern for a women's hood:

1. From point A5 to the left, draw a perpendicular to the middle of the front, equal to 4 cm, and get point B1.

2. From point B1 down the perpendicular we put 4 - 5 cm, put point B.

3. From point A along the line of the middle of the back, we lay off a segment equal to
Vgol=(P—Vsht)+Pvgol The resulting point is point 1.

4. From point 1 to the left, draw a horizontal line and put on it a segment equal to 0.5 * Shvch,
we get point 2.

5. From point 1 downwards we lay off a segment equal to 1/3 * (Ogol + Pvgol), and place point 3.

6. Through point 3 to the left we draw a perpendicular, along which we plot a distance equal to =
segment 13 + 1 cm. The resulting point is point 4.

7. We connect point 4 with point 2 with a straight line, relative to which we transfer the constructed right
part of the hood to the front part.

In practice, this can be done by bending a sheet of paper along line 24 and pricking the previously obtained right side of the hood - you get points 1a and 3a.

Extend lines 1a and 3a to the left by 4 cm and connect the resulting point with a smooth line to point B.

Hood with a seam in the middle. In the drawing of a classic-shaped hood, we set aside 10 cm from points 1 and 1a. We transfer the dart from the neckline to the middle seam. We connect the resulting point with a smooth line.

Visually, these hoods look like this:

Hood - collar cut out one-piece with a shelf of the product and looks like this

To construct a drawing of such a hood, we will need patterns for the shelf and back.

1. We transfer the dart from the shoulder section of the back to the cut of the back neck

2. We transfer the shelf pattern onto paper.

3. Place the back pattern onto the outlined shelf pattern so that

• the tops of the necks of the shelf and back are connected at one point, let's call it point P;
• The shoulder section of the back should be a continuation of the shoulder section of the shelf;
• the middle of the back should lie parallel to the middle of the front

We outline the pattern of the back.

4. From the middle of the back neck line upwards in a straight line we lay off a segment equal to the measurement of head height Vnol plus allowance (point B),

Measurement The length of an adult is approximately 27 - 30 cm.

Example. AB = 30+5 =35 cm

5. Through the resulting point B, draw a horizontal line to the left and put 3 cm on it to the left - point B1. We connect point B1 to point A with a straight line.

6. From point B1 to the right we lay off a segment equal to the measure of Shv.h. — point B2:

Sw.h. -width of the upper part of the head, for an adult 25-30cm

Example. B1B2 = Sw.h. = 30 cm.

7. We connect the resulting point B2 with the cut of the side of the shelf.

This is what should happen

8. Perform modeling:

• change the direction of the dart of the back of the hood (preferably)
• round the corner at point B1 (if desired)

As a result of all the actions, this is the pattern of the hood, one-piece with a shelf.

The hood has one seam - a middle seam from the middle of the back to the front edge and two darts. If desired, you can model a hood with a detachable central part.

The volume of the hood depends on the freedom increases. The greater the increase, the greater the volume.

OK it's all over Now!

Next time I’ll tell you how I sewed a hood based on this hood pattern. Yes, I had such an interesting order - a bashlyk for an autumn coat. It turned out very interesting.

Cowl collar or draped hood? Two in one!

Quite an interesting specimen. And it’s not entirely clear what it really is - whether it’s a collar collar, or whether it’s a hood with drapery.
Although, probably, this is still a hood with drapery (but there is also something from the collar).
The pattern is even a little unique, since it is not worn to holes, but it looks very impressive and original.
I recommend not making the hood from all materials.
Recommendations for choosing fabric for this model:
1. Soft elastic material
2. Not very wrinkle-resistant
3. It’s better if it’s a knitted fabric
4. Easy to drape
5. Plain
If you choose knitwear, then synthetic knitwear will look good. After we have chosen the fabric, we begin to create a pattern for the hood-collar.
First we need to prepare the front and back parts:
1. We start by drawing the front part in a facing position.
2. We increase the neckline along the lines of the shoulder sections (front and back) by 4 cm (i.e. with
bases of cuts).
3. We deepen the back neckline by 1.5 cm along the middle line, and the front neckline
deepen by 19 cm.
4. On the side cut line, mark the area where the bodice meets the gathered cut.
hood.

Now let’s directly build the hood-collar:
1. Draw a right angle with the vertex at point 1.
2. Along the main vertical from point 1 to point 2 we set aside 30-33 cm upward - this is the height of the hood.
3. From point 2, draw a perpendicular to the left to the base vertical with a length of 22 cm - this is point 3.
4. From point 1 along the base horizontal line, move 2.5 cm to the left - this will be point 4.
5. From point 4, we put 1.5 cm down vertically (the value of the deepening of the back neck) and we get point 5.
6. From point 2 we put 8 cm to the left and down and get points 7 and 6, respectively.
7. Connect points 6 and 7, draw a line for the rear cut of the hood in accordance with the picture.
8. From point 4 we put the length of the new back neckline to the left along the base horizontal line minus 0.5 cm - we get point 8.
9. From point 8 we plot the length of the new front neck along the base horizontal line minus approximately 5 cm - we get point 9.
10. From point 8, draw a vertical line down 4 cm long - we get point 12.
11. From point 9 down along the auxiliary vertical we plot the depth of the front neckline - point 13.
12. From point 9 up along the auxiliary vertical we set aside 8-10 cm - we get point 10.
13. From point 10 we put 2 cm to the right - point 11. The segment 9-11 corresponds to the line of the middle front.
14. We draw the line of the front cut of the hood from point 3 to point 11 in accordance with the picture.
15. To obtain point 3a and the line of the upper cut of the hood, apply a triangle with a right angle to the line of the front cut so that one of its sides touches it, and the other intersects segment 2-3 in the middle.
16. From point 5, through point 12, to point 13, draw a line for the lower cut of the hood along the patterns in accordance with the picture.
17. We continue the line of the lower cut of the hood to point 13a, the distance between points 13 and 13a is equal to the distance between points 10 and 14, which is equal to the distance from the middle of the front to the side cut line (dotted line in the figure).
18. Draw an upward arc centered at point 12 (point Z) through point 13a.
19. From point 14 we draw a vertical upward with a length of 9-10 cm until it intersects with the arc from point 13a - we get point 14a.
20. Along the arc from point 13a to point 14a, mark the value - 18 cm, to which the edge of the hood will need to be gathered.
21. Extend the line of the front cut of the hood from point 11 to point 14a.
22. From point 10 to the left we put 10 cm - we get point 15.
We connect points 13 and 15 with a smooth line, extend it upward until it intersects with the extended line of the front cut of the hood - we get point 15a. The resulting smooth line is a cut from a smaller part of the hood, which is sewn into the front neckline.

Hood and front cut details:
1. In the figure, the dotted line is the line along which the edge of the drapery of the hood goes.
2. Two parts of the hood - left and right.

If you do everything correctly, you will get a hood-collar or collar like this

The hood is really very beautiful! And with the right selection of fabric, you will have (I’m not afraid of this word) a masterpiece that will attract admiring glances. After all, he ALONE can decorate an outfit in this way, and become not only a “highlight”, but a diamond, for which nothing else is needed.

I accidentally came across the “insides” of the hood from last year’s question post.

Isn't this a hood based on a straight strip?

Lay it like that - in folds... Fold the fabric into the required number of layers and “pierce” one edge with thread, secure the folds symmetrically from the inside of the hood... It doesn’t seem complicated...

Inn@w "I I don’t think there’s a trick there, there’s an old American series about the life of, say, the first settlers, “My Little Farm.” there are many hooded hats on ladies sewn according to this principle

here is a baby hat from followers. Remove the visor, make the bands wider and longer, so the gather in the hood is stronger (there the fabric is more flexible and visually thinner), and the seam will be lower..."

That's how Inn@w showed the photo, that's how it should be. Everything is simple there! There is no need to invent anything with the “form”, it will come out on its own when you fold the unsewn part into the folds. The folds must be laid in a row, without gaps, to make a layer cake. Then pull one edge of this “pie” together and lay the free ends down inside the hood. ALL. Before writing about constructing a hood-helmet pattern, I want to make a short digression and tell you how this type differs from a simple one.
It's all about the front end. It is designed in such a way that it protects the front part from wind and bad weather. And it is thanks to its design that it creates protection like a helmet. This is where the name “helmet” comes from.
Features of the construction of a “helmet” type hood.
- This model can be designed in different ways, but all models have a slope in front, the shape of which can be used to identify this model.
- The number of darts along the stitching line into the neckline may vary.
- The top cut and the front part can also be designed differently.
Construction of the hood it is produced like this.
1. From point O, set aside 2.5 cm upward and place point K0.
2. From point K0 to the right, set aside 2 cm and place point K.
3. From point K to the right, we make a notch on a straight line drawn from point O to the right, with a radius equal to: back neck + front neck + Pos + dart.
One or two darts are designed, the opening of each is 2-3 cm. The number of darts affects the shape of the hood and its fit. Ppos - landing allowance. This value depends on the fabric, but on average this value can be 0.5-1 cm. Section K-K1 = back neck + front neck + Pos + dart
4. Connect points K and K1, and set aside a segment to the middle of the darts:
Section K-K2 = section K2-K22 = 1/2 sprout + tuck solution + Ppos
5. From points K2 and K22 we draw perpendiculars upward.
6. Height of the hood: from point K0 up, set aside Vgol + 1 cm and set point K3, where Vgol is the height of the head
7. Auxiliary points 1 and 2. From point K0 upward, set aside 2-5 cm and place point 1.
From point 1, we put 1-2 cm perpendicularly and put point 2.
Through point 2 we draw a straight line parallel to K-K1 and from the point of intersection with the perpendicular from points K2 and K22 to the right and left we put aside half of the dart solution. The length of the darts is 8-10 cm.
8. The length of the hood is determined by the value set aside to the right of point K3.
From point K3 to the right we set aside a distance equal to Ogol/3 + (6-10 cm), we get point K4.
9. Along the bisector from corner K3, set aside 4-6 cm and place point K31.
10. From point K4 we put 0-4 cm down and put point K41.
11. We decorate the upper and occipital sections of the hood with a smooth line through the points: K41, K31, 2, K.
12. Connect points K41 and K1 with a straight line and at the intersection with the line from point 2, place point K11.
13. Auxiliary points 3 and 4. Point 3 is located in the middle of the distance K11-K41
Section K11-3 = section K11-K41/2, Section 34 = 2.5-4 cm.
14. To the right of points K1 and K11 we set aside a value equal to 4-8 cm (according to the model).
Segment K1-K6 = segment K11-K7 = 4-8 cm.
15. We design the front part through the points: K41, 4, K7.

And this is what a hood built according to this drawing clearly looks like:

I propose to master the construction of hood patterns outside the neck of the product. Such hoods can be either set-in or fastened with buttons, buttons or a zipper. The construction of hoods is similar to the construction, because both collars and hoods, one way or another, are connected to the neck of the product.

Hood without fastening

As with constructing the collar, we start by constructing a right angle. From the top of the corner, point O, we put upward the segment OK, which determines the position of the line for sewing the hood into the neck. Length of segment OK = 3 – 5 cm.

To the horizontal right from point K we lay off the segment KK1. The length of the segment KK1 is 0 - 2.5 cm, it determines the degree of fit of the hood to the head. The greater this distance, the greater the fit.

Then we lay off the segment K1K11 from point K1 to the horizontal line coming from point O, which is equal to the sum of the length of the neck (distance A0A2), the length of the neck (distance A4A5) and the tuck opening (Pv = 1.5 - 3 cm). K1K11 = A0A2 + A4A5 + (1.5-3) cm.

On the segment K1K11 we find point K2. K1K2 = back neck length + ½ dart opening. And we restore the perpendicular from point K2. The segment K2K21 is equal to 1 - 1.5 cm.

We draw a line for sewing in the hood with a smooth curve, connecting points K1, K21, K11. Don't forget about the tuck. Dart opening = 1.5 - 3 cm. Dart length = 8 - 12 cm. We will also decorate the sides of the dart with smooth lines.

Go ahead. From point K up, set aside the height of the hood (Bk) + the increase for a loose fit (1 - 5 cm). KK3 = Vk + increase.

From point K3 to the right horizontally we plot the width of the hood at the top, segment K3K4 = head circumference/3 + increase (5 - 10 cm). Bevel of the upper cut of the hood, segment K4K41 = 0 – 2 cm.

Bisector K3K31 is 3.5 – 6 cm.

Let's shape the upper and back sections of the hood with a smooth curve, connecting points K1, K31, K41, the front edge of the hood, connecting points K41 and K11. It is desirable that the angle at point K41 be straight.

Helmet-shaped hood

Its design is distinguished by the presence of a fastener. Therefore, this hood model is very popular in warm jackets.

As always, we begin the construction with a right angle with the vertex at point O. Up from point O we lay the segment OK = 3 - 5 cm. To the horizontal right from point K we lay the segment KK1 = 0 - 2.5 cm.

From point K1 to a horizontal line running, from point O we make a notch with a radius = K1K5 = A0A2 (back neck length) + A4A5 (front neck length) + tuck opening (1.5 - 3 cm).

On the segment K1K5 we find point K2. K1K2 = back neck length + ½ dart opening. And we restore the perpendicular from point K2. The segment K2K21 is equal to 1 - 1.5 cm.

To construct the approach to the fastener, we put a segment K5K6 = 2.5 - 7.5 cm vertically up from point K5 (in accordance with the hood model). Now, from points K5 and K6 to the right, horizontally we set aside distances equal to the width of the half-skid of the side of the product and put points K7 and K8.

We design the hood stitching line with a smooth curve and don’t forget about the dart. Length of the dart = 8 – 12 cm. The dart opening is 1.5 – 3 cm. We set aside ½ of the dart opening from point K21 to the right and left. We decorate the sides of the dart with smooth lines.

The height of the hood, as in the first option, is equal to the Bk measurement + increase (1 - 5 cm).

We lay off the segment KK3 = Vk + an increase of 1 – 5 cm from point K upward.

From point K3 to the right we lay off the segment K3K4 = head circumference/3 + increase (5 – 10 cm). The bevel of the hood at the top is also equal to 0 - 2 cm. K4K41 = 0 - 2 cm.

We connect points K41 and K6 with a straight line. From the middle of this line we restore the perpendicular = 1.5 - 4 cm. Segment 3-4 = 1.5 - 4 cm.

We decorate the front edge of the hood with a smooth line through points K41, 4, K6, K7, K8. The ledge of the fastener can be rounded or left rectangular, it depends on the style of the product.

And there was a small detail left - the top of the hood. It can be designed in this way: from point K3 to the right and down we set aside 3–5 cm and put points 1 and 2. The result is an angle that will need to be connected after processing the upper and occipital sections of the hood.

The top seam of the hood is made with a smooth line, through point K41 and point 2, the occipital seam through point K and point 1.

The construction is over. I hope these patterns will be useful to you, and clothes with a hood will protect you from the cold, both in the off-season and in frosty weather.

© Olga Marizina

Hoods were worn on cloaks in ancient times; they provided excellent protection from wind and rain. Nowadays there are hoods on any clothing, such as jackets, raincoats, coats, sweatshirts, and even robes are sewn with hoods. But if your coat, for example, does not have a hood, then you can easily make it yourself.

• pattern paper;
• material for the hood;
• lining material – fur, fleece, any soft fabric;
• threads, scissors, pins;
• sewing machine.

Sewing a hood using patterns is not at all difficult; it can be decorated with embroidery or decorative buttons. Approach the sewing process with imagination, and it will become not only protection in bad weather, but also an excellent decoration.