Japan & France. History of the Kenzo fashion house. A Brief History of France's Oldest Fashion Houses Creative Director: John Galliano

In September 1939 The Second World War began, which had no less influence on fashion than the First.

For the first time, women not only worked in the rear along with men, but also fought at the front. And, like men, women put on military uniforms.

In all countries participating in the war, measures were taken to ration consumption - food, fuel, fabric and clothing were issued using cards and coupons.

The lack of basic necessities and harsh living conditions led to a simplification of costume, the emergence of multifunctional forms of clothing, saving materials and “homemade” fashion.

Combined models came into fashion, when several old dresses were made into one new one. In wartime models, many design details appeared - yokes, insert wedges, which were made from a different fabric.

One of the symbols of military fashion was the turban, which was made from a wide variety of materials. It was extremely easy to make and hid the lack of hair.

The most scarce item of women's clothing during the war was stockings (it was at this time that the practice of wearing summer shoes on bare feet, without stockings and socks, spread)

At the same time, skirts were significantly shortened, shoulders became wider, and waists were tightened with belts. The wartime silhouette of dresses and suits was in the form of the letter X, and that of coats was in the form of a rectangle.

Despite all the difficulties, wartime fashion remained subject to the requirements of the ensemble. The dress or suit was always worn with a matching headdress and gloves.

Fashion magazines created the image of an energetic, well-groomed, beautiful and faithful girlfriend, which was supposed to strengthen the morale of soldiers._

During the war, almost all fashion houses continued to operate. The collections of French couturiers were extravagant models, mainly intended for export to the United States.

The “utility” plan rationed the consumption of fabrics and materials, controlled sewing enterprises, the quality and prices of clothing. At first the government controlled 50%, and then all 85 textile and clothing enterprises. According to this plan, clothing coupons were introduced.

Additional decrees were issued that controlled the amount of fabric and banned embroidery and sequin decorations.

The shortage of fabrics and clothing forced many to sew themselves. During the war, many brochures and magazines were published with detailed recommendations on how to alter old clothes, update a hat or knit a sweater, under the slogan “make do with what you have and fix it.”

“fashion theater” the most difficult times for high fashion came after the Liberation. High fashion houses were going through difficult times - there was a shortage of fabrics, models were selling poorly...

“Liberation fashion” did not offer anything new. And in these unfavorable conditions, in order to once again draw attention to Parisian fashion, the “t.m” project was carried out, in which all fashion houses participated.

Then the idea was born to create a collection on a scale - for dolls.

The 1945 spring/summer collection was made and shown on 200 dolls, 68.5 cm tall. The dolls had a wire frame body and a plaster head.

The sketches of the dolls were developed by the artist Eliana Bonabel, they were made by the artist Jean Saint-Martin, and the heads were cast in his workshop by the Catalan sculptor Joan Reboul. For these dolls, each fashion house sewed models of coats, suits, day and evening dresses; For these purposes, remnants of fabrics from previous collections were used, and special fabrics were woven.

For each doll, silk underwear was sewn, hats, shoes, bags and jewelry were made (by the famous jewelry firms Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpel). The scenery was designed by Jean Cocteau and Christian Berard.

This exhibition was visited by about 100 thousand people, then it went on a tour of Europe and the USA.

Pierre Balmain

Almost all couturiers in the 1950s. worked in the “new look” style.

Already in 1947, all fashion houses, following Dior, changed the silhouette and lengthened the skirts.

Fashion trends were developed by haute couture houses known before the war (Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Jacques Fath) and newly opened houses (Pierre Balmain, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Ted Lapidus ", "Madame Carvin", specializing in models for short clients).

Despite the favorable economic situation, some “old” haute couture houses closed their activities: Worth (in 1953), Pa-ken (in 1956), Edvard Molyneux (in 1950), "Robert Piguet" (in 1951), "Schiaparelli" (in 1954).

One of the "big" fashion houses in the 1950s. became the Pierre Balmain House. Its creator P. Balmain was born in 1914 in Savoy. P. Balmain showed an interest in art from childhood, studied architecture at the School of Fine Arts in Paris and drew sketches of models for sale (for R. Piguet).

In 1934-1939 P. Balmain worked for E. Molineux and served in the army at the beginning of the war.

After the capitulation, he found a position as an assistant at the House of "Lucien Lelong". In 1945, he left Lelong and opened a haute couture house with his own funds. At the first fashion show, Balmain showed long dresses with emphasized waists and flared skirts, similar to Dior’s “new look.”

This feminine and elegant style brought him success. In 1951, he opened a fashion house in New York.

In 1952-1953 The “Dear Madam” collection, which was especially popular with American clients, enjoyed great success.

The Pierre Balmain house dressed Hollywood movie stars and American millionaires.

Balmain did not like experiments with shape and silhouette, focusing on luxurious decor - his style distinguished him from Dior's models a large number of embroidery, finishing, complex textures.

The Jacques Fath House, founded back in 1937, also enjoyed success among American clients. Jacques Fath was born in 1912 in Maisons-Lafitte.

He had a commercial education and worked as a broker at the Paris Stock Exchange. After serving in the army, J. Fath began modeling hats (the craft of a milliner helped out many in the 1930s - the demand for hats was great, since a headdress was an obligatory element of a costume).

In 1937, in his two-room apartment, J. Fath organized the first show of the haute couture collection.

In 1939, he proposed models with cinched waists and full skirts, anticipating the “new look.”

J. Fath became one of the leading Parisian couturiers during the war, continuing to work in occupied Paris, and participated in the Fashion Theater project.

After the war, Jacques Fath became a famous haute couture house. In 1948, J. Fath introduced a line of ready-to-wear clothing in the United States.

Veil models were distinguished by sculptural forms and expressive silhouettes.

It was impossible not to notice a woman dressed in an original and elegant dress from Fata, which is why movie stars fell in love with his style.

J. Fath died of leukemia in 1954.

"New look" by K. Dior

The new style was born on February 12, 1947, when the first show of the collection of the newly opened House of Christian Dior took place.

The creator of the collections of this high fashion house was 42-year-old K. Dior. Christian Dior was born in 1905 in Granville, Normandy.

His father, Maurice Dior, owned a chemical fertilizer factory, and his mother was an elegant Belle Epoque lady.

For Dior, his mother always remained the standard of beauty and elegance. He had been interested in art since childhood, inventing fancy dress costumes for himself and his sisters, but his father wanted to see him as a successor to his business.

In the early 1910s. The family moved to Paris, where C. Dior studied at the request of his parents at the Diplomatic Academy, but spent all his time in artists' studios.

Therefore, a compromise solution was found - his father allowed him to open an art gallery.

In 1928, C. Dior, together with J. Bolzhan, opened a gallery where paintings by S. Dali, J. Miró, G. de Chirico, J. Braque, M. Utrillo, C. Berard, P. Chelishchev and others were exhibited.

But the Great Depression began - Dior's father became bankrupt, losing his factory and estate in Granville.

Deprived of financial support, Dior was soon forced to close his galleries (in 1932, together with P. Kohl, he opened another one), was left without a livelihood and fell ill with tuberculosis.

In 1934, with the help of friends, he was able to travel to Spain and was treated there for about a year.

When he returned to Paris in 1935, his friend C. Berard, who in those years successfully worked as a fashion illustrator, advised Dior to try drawing sketches for fashion houses.

Unexpectedly for Dior himself, this frivolous occupation began to generate regular income.

He drew sketches of hats for the famous milliners Agnès and C. Saint-Cyr, and collaborated with the fashion department of the Le Figaro newspaper. In 1938, K. Dior received a position at the Robert Piguet fashion house. At the beginning of the war, Dior was mobilized and served for about a year as a soldier of the 1st category - he dug trenches.

After the surrender, he went to the south of France, where his father, sister and former housekeeper lived, who sheltered them in her house.

In 1941, he returned to Paris, where he got a job at the Lucien Lelong House and worked with P. Balmain.

His models were successful, but L. Lelong did not allow Dior to deviate too much from the general direction of military fashion.

Disagreements with the owner led to the fact that in 1945 P. Balmain left the Lucien Lelong House and founded his own haute couture house.

Dior Christian Dior could not find his purpose in life for a long time.

He studied at the Diplomatic Academy in Paris, tried to run his own art gallery, in the fashionable houses of Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong. Finally, in 1946, Christian Dior opened his own fashion house.

Less than a year had passed before he became famous throughout the world: on February 12, 1947, Dior’s “new look” collection produced a real cultural revolution.

It is interesting that fashion historians consider Dior not so much a talented designer as a good stylist and a competent entrepreneur who guessed what to offer the public and how to sell it competently. So, the silhouette hourglass" With full skirt and the wasp waist, which formed the basis of the “new look” style, was not invented by Dior: this style was known much earlier. But Dior proposed these classic proportions “at the right time and in the right place”: at the end of the 40s, ladies tired of military asceticism wanted to feel fragile and elegant again.

After Dior's death in 1957, the House was headed by his young assistant Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the creative director of the House is John Galiano.

GIVENCHY

Givenchy. Hubert de Givenchy is considered an aristocrat of the fashion world not so much because of his origin, but because of the elegant style to which he was faithful throughout his career.

This style was said to be too sophisticated, and the designer was compared to a “little prince” who creates his own worlds.

However, Givenchy, by and large, did not create any style.
His main invention is the cinematic image of Audrey Hepburn, whom he met in 1953. Hepburn was then preparing to star in the film Sabrina. The dresses created for “Sabrina” brought Hubert de Givenchy his first Oscar for costumes and turned Audrey into a “fashion icon.”

Since then, she has become the designer's permanent muse. So, in 1957, Givenchy dedicated its first perfume to Audrey - L'lnterdit: in the future, the House of Givenchy would become an active player in the perfume market.

In 1988, Hubert de Givenchy sold his House to LVMH, but retained the position of art director.

In 1996, the “little prince” left the fashion world forever. Today the traditions of the House are continued by the Briton Oswald Boateng.

YvesSaintLaurent

Yves Saint-Laurent.

The scion of an aristocratic family, Yves Saint Laurent owes a lot to his mother Lucienne. It was she who noticed in the sickly boy a penchant for the profession of designer and cultivated it in every possible way.

At the age of 19, Yves Saint Laurent entered a competition for young designers and became its laureate - together with the young Karl Lagerfeld. After this victory, many doors opened before him: in particular, Christian Dior himself offered him the post of his assistant.

Yves Saint Laurent fully lived up to Dior's expectations, but his mission in fashion was completely different: if Dior's fashion was mature and elegant, then Yves Saint Laurent was always a rebel, an innovator who brought into fashion something that was not there before . He was the first to offer ladies tuxedos, trouser suits, transparent dresses and safari style. He posed nude to advertise his men's perfume (1971), and gave the women's perfume the provocative name Opium (1977).

Being a 100% creator, Laurent would hardly have been able to create his House without the support of a talented manager, Pierre Berger. Their collaboration began in 1961 and continued until the death of the great couturier: Yves Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008.

LANVIN

Lanvin.
At the beginning of her professional career, Jeanne Lanvin made hats. At the end of the 19th century, hats were the main ladies' accessories, so business in her hat studio, opened in 1890, was going well.

Soon Jeanne Lanvin switched to the production of women's clothing and by 1909 had already acquired her own fashion house, famous for evening dresses: romantic and richly decorated with embroidery “a la the 18th century” and extravagant ones in oriental style. The oriental theme was at the peak of fashion at that time, and Jeanne Lanvin, who had not only the talent of a designer, but also the flair of an entrepreneur, never lost sight of the key trends.

So, in the 30s, when wide trousers had just appeared in women's fashion, the House of Lanvin produced the famous evening “pajamas” for going out. And after World War II, he switched to the “new look” style proposed by Christian Dior.

Fashion, among other things, owes Jeanne Lanvin one extremely useful discovery: she divided women's clothing into “adult” and “children’s”. Madame Lanvin was the first designer to create a full-fledged children's collection, not similar to clothing for adult women. The first person to try it on was Jeanne Lanvin's daughter, Marie Blanche. She inherited the House of Lanvin after the death of her mother in 1946. Currently, the main designer of the House is Alber Elbaz.

CHANEL

Chanel.
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was a great inventor all her life: she came up with not only small black dress(1926), the first synthesized perfume in history, which did not replicate the smell of any natural plant, (Chanel No. 5, 1921), quilted handbags on a chain and suits made of loose tweed (1954).

She also thoroughly “worked” on her biography: she added something, hid something, and like a true woman, she pushed back the date of her birth by ten years.

She started her career in a ladies' hat shop. And her first “full-fledged” fashion house opened in the resort town of Deauville, where the “rich and famous” spent their holidays.

In 1919, she could already afford a boutique in Paris - it opened on rue Cambon (where it remains to this day).

As a designer, Coco Chanel never had her head in the clouds. On the contrary, she was too “of this world”, and her ideas were primarily practical. Her main talent was the ability to “rethink” familiar things and find new uses for them. Yes, at her suggestion men's sweater became part of women's wardrobes, cheap jewelry and an “orphan” black dress turned into evening classics, and loose tweed became a symbol of elegance.

Gabrielle Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971. It is noteworthy that only three suits were found in her closet: a practical view of things extended to her own wardrobe.

Low Dillon, daughter of Jane Birkin, the one in whose honor Hermes created her famous bag, she once said: “Arrogance is inherent in the French style. The Frenchwoman has great self-respect and is so confident in her sense of style that dictating to her what to wear or not to wear in a particular season is, above all, useless.” In my opinion, her words very accurately reflect the three main qualities of a French woman: unwillingness to compromise, self-confidence and detachment from reality.

To understand how to achieve the desired effect - to look fashionable and at the same time relaxed, let's talk about what they offer their clients today real French brands of clothing, shoes and accessories. Most likely, their designers and stylists know, and on a subconscious level, what clothes, shoes and accessories to offer fashionistas.

My list of French women's clothing brands looks like this (so as not to offend anyone, I have arranged the brands in alphabetical order):

1. Balenciaga
2. Balmain
3. Ba&sh
4. Celine
5. Chanel
6. Christian Dior
7. Claudie Pierlot
8. Faith Connection
9. Givanchy
10. Hermes
11. Isabel Marant
12. Kenzo
13. Maison Margiela
14. Moncler
15. Morgan
16. Nina Ricci
17. Yves Saint Laurent

In this article I will talk about ten French premium women's clothing brands, in the next - about democratic ones or, as they are called, budget friendly.

Balenciaga

Year founded: 1919

Creative Director: Demna Gvasalia

In fact, the founder of the brand, Cristobal Balenciaga, is from Spain. Due to the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, Cristobal moved to Paris and opened his first store there in 1937. Christian Dior called him “an example for all of us,” and Coco Chanel claimed that he is the only designer who truly knows how to cut and sew.

The late 1940s and 1950s are considered the "era of Balenciaga": the couturier created many garments that are still used in fashion design today. These include butterfly dresses, a bag dress, and a short coat without buttons and a collar.

After the death of the maestro, Balenciaga's ideas were developed by Andre Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro, but sales began to grow only with the arrival of Nicolas Ghesquière in 1997.

Currently the brand Balenciaga famous for its avant-garde stylistic solutions. Balenciaga always goes one step ahead of the others; this brand is considered a kind of predictor of the fashion of the future.

Clothes Balenciaga worn by celebrities Sienna Muller, Emmanuelle Alt, Stephanie Seymour, Caroline Trinity, Hilary Rhoda and others.

According to the publication Business of Fashion, in 2017 the brand Balenciaga became the second most popular clothing brand, second only to Gucci.

Balmain

Year founded: 1946

Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing

French couturier Pierre Balmain opened his first boutique in Paris. Clients of this fashion house over the years included Vivien Leigh, Katharine Hepburn, Sorry-Paul Belmondo, Sophia Loren, Marlene Dietrich and Jennifer Jones.

Lines of perfumes and accessories were launched in the 70s, in 1998 the brand Balmain released the first miniature women's chronograph, and since 2001, women's Swiss watches have been produced under the same name.

On the company's official website Balmain You can buy an original bag ranging from €661 to €1993.

Celine

Year founded: 1945

Creative Director: Hedi Slimane

Since 1996 brand Celine is part of an international holding LVMH. Initially, Celine Vipiana and her husband Richard launched a line of luxury children's shoes, but since 1960 the company has been producing bags and accessories for women. Clothing, shoes and accessories Celine Sold in more than a hundred boutiques around the world, as well as in numerous online stores.

Minimum price of an original bag Celine is €720, maximum – €3400.

Chanel

Year founded: 1910

Creative Director: Karl Lagerfeld

Coco Chanel introduced many elements of men's clothing into women's clothing. She was the first to suggest replacing tight and uncomfortable corsets with loose trouser suits and straight dresses. Thanks to Chanel women began to dress less pretentiously, but more comfortably, freely and liberated. External changes led to internal changes - women took an active life position and started self-realization.

Despite the fact that Coco Chanel's career had ups and downs, despite the fact that she collaborated with the Gestapo and participated in a conspiracy against Winston Churchill, her contribution to the development of fashion of the 20th century is invaluable. With her light hand tweed suits, strings of pearls, and perfume became symbols of good taste Chanel No.5 And Coco Chanel, as well as quilted leather bags on chains in gold or silver 2.55, which appeared in February 1955.

Clothes and accessories Chanel not sold in online stores. Beware of fakes!

Clothing, shoes and accessories from Chanel worn by Catherine Deneuve, Vanessa Paradis, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Tattoo, Keira Knightley, Nicole Kidman and others.

Original Chanel bags from the 2018 collection can be purchased in Chanel brand stores at prices no lower than:

Chanel PVC/Iridescent Patent Boy Water Small Flap Bag - $4,500.00
Chanel Braided Lambskin Boy Chanel Old Medium Flap Bag - $5,100.00
Chanel Embroidered Denim/Tweed Mini Flap Bag - $5,800.00
Chanel Tweed/PVC Gabrielle Hobo Bag - $5,000.00
Chanel Sequin Waterfall Waist Bag - $2,800.00
Chanel PVC Coco Splash Medium Flap Bag - $3,000.00
Chanel Medium Coco Handle Bag - $4,300.00
Chanel Printed PVC Coco Bucket Large Bag - $3,700.00

Christian Dior

Year founded: 1946

Creative Director: Maria Chiuri

Christian Dior's first collection was presented in 1947 and was such a success that already in 1949, three quarters of French fashion industry exports came from Christian Dior.

For now Christian Dior produces women's and men's clothing, shoes, accessories, cosmetics, watches, and underwear.

Currently the brand Christian Dior belongs LVMH.

Givenchy

Year founded: 1952

Creative Director: Clare Waight Keller

In 1953, French designer Hubert de Givenchy began a collaboration with Audrey Hepburn that lasted 39 years. Together with Audrey, who was just beginning her artistic career, they created a style that combined elegance with natural beauty. Hubert Givenchy designed Audrey Hepburn's outfits for the films Funny Face, Breakfast at Tiffany's, How to Steal a Million and Charade.

At JFK's funeral, Jacqueline Kennedy wore a black dress from Givenchy.

In 1987 fashion house Givenchy was bought by a French concern LVMH, who also owns such Parisian fashion houses as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix And Celine.

In 1995, Hubert de Givenchy left his fashion house and retired.

For her wedding with Prince Harry, the actress wore a dress from Givenchy, created by Clare Waight Keller. The veil, embroidered with a floral pattern representing the 53 countries of the Commonwealth of Nations, took hundreds of hours to make manual labor craftswomen of the brand.

Hermès

Creative Director: Pierre-Alex Dumas

Year founded: 1837

Initially Hermes was founded as a workshop for the production of equipment for riding and horse-drawn carriages. With time Hermes began producing ready-to-wear clothing for men and women, perfumes, accessories, watches and jewelry.

The most famous products Hermes- bags Kelly- in honor of Grace Kelly and Birkin- in honor of Jane Birkin.

Bags Hermes sewn from calf, ostrich, crocodile or lizard skin. It takes 14 to 18 hours to make one bag.

In 2015, after PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) accused Hermès of cruelty to crocodiles, Jane Birkin banned the use of her name on bags.

Bag collection Birkin Victoria Beckham has more than 100 units.

One of the bags Birkin, made of crocodile skin, inlaid with 18-karat gold and adorned with 245 diamonds, was sold at auction in Hong Kong for $377,261 US.

Isabel Marant

Year founded: 1994

Creative Director: Isabelle Maran

French brand Isabel Marant produces clothing, jewelry, accessories and shoes. The heeled sneakers launched in 2011 made the brand famous worldwide. Popularity of sneakers Isabel Marant comparable to the popularity of boots from the Australian brand UGG.

Clothes and shoes Isabel Marant worn by Kate Bortsaw, Katie Holmes, Anne Hathway and Hilary Duff.

The price tag for Isabel Marant sneakers ranges from $288 (if there is a seasonal discount) to $600.

French brand Louis Vuitton

Year founded: 1854

Creative Director: Nicolas Ghesquière

This French brand specializes in the production of suitcases, bags, belts, watches and jewelry, as well as in premium women's and men's clothing. Currently, Louis Vuitton is part of the international holding LVMH. The full list of companies included in the holding can be found.

Like the brand Hermes, Louis Vuiitton most famous for suitcases and bags. The brand produces them from the very beginning of its activity. LV uses leather and fabrics to produce bags. Checkered fabrics, monogrammed fabric in the form of the brand logo, and red-beige striped fabric are extremely popular among buyers.

The brand does not hold sales for reasons of principle, and all unsold bags Louis Vuitton burns. This automatically means that buy an original bag Louis Vuitton It's not possible to get a discount unless you buy it at a second-hand store. This is what is written on the official LV website (clickable screenshot):

Maison Margiela

Year founded: 1988

Creative Director: John Galliano

Despite the fact that Martin Margiela is a Belgian luxury fashion house Maison Margiela was founded in Paris. The brand sews women's and men's ready-to-wear and haute couture clothing, and also produces accessories, jewelry, perfumes, shoes and interior items. The Maison Margiela brand is famous for its avant-garde and deconstructivist design. Margiela cut clothes from posters, socks, fur hats and false eyelashes.

Martin Margiela does not communicate with photographers and journalists, never goes out to the public after shows, and answers all questions exclusively by fax. Margiela's idea of ​​invisibility is taken to the point of grotesquery. For example, the faces of the models at the spring-summer 2009 collection were wrapped in nylon and hidden under wigs.

However, the brand Maison Margiela considered one of the most influential in the fashion business. The brand's collections inspired designers Hermès, Mark Jacobs, Junya Watanabe And Prada. Maison Margiela often collaborates with other brands, including Opening Ceremony, Converse, Swarovski, L'Oreal And H&M.

France entered the war as an ally of Poland on September 3, 1939, declaring war on Germany. But until April 1940 active fighting were not fought on the Western Front - the so-called “strange war” lasted. In April 1940, German troops occupied Denmark and began the occupation of Norway, and on May 10 they unexpectedly invaded Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. Having bypassed the fortified border with France (the Maginot Line) from the north, the Germans occupied Paris on June 14. After the capitulation on June 22, 1940, France was divided into two zones: occupied and free, on the territory of which power was formally exercised by the Vichy government, which collaborated with the occupation authorities. In May 1942, the German army crossed the demarcation line and occupied the free zone.

During the “strange war,” almost all fashion houses continued to operate (in 1939, only K. Chanel and M. Vionnet closed their fashion houses). The collections of French couturiers were extravagant models, mainly intended for export to the United States. Favorite colors were the national colors of France - red, white and blue. E. Schiaparelli, for example, presented sets of colors “Foreign Legion Red” and “Maginot Line Blue”. Couturiers offered special overalls for bomb shelters (R. Piguet,

Rice. 5.2.

E. Schiaparelli) (Fig. 5.2). In May 1940, during a panic in anticipation of the arrival of the Germans, many fashion houses left Paris: some went to London through the south of France (Charles Creed and Edward Molyneux), others to the USA (Mainbusche,

"Jacques Aime", "Charles James").

E. Schiaparelli, who had a contract to give lectures in the USA, also left, but her fashion house remained in Paris. Factory owners of Jewish origin moved to Nice or the USA. Other fashion houses (Maggie Rouff, Lucien Lelong, Paquin, Jean Patou, Marcel Rocha, Nina Ricci, Jacques Fath, Cristobal Balenciaga, Worth) first moved to Biarritz and Lyon. But then L. Lelong, who from 1936 to 1946 was president of the Syndicate of Haute Couture, decided to return to occupied Paris, as he said, “into the mouth of the devil,” where he had to fight with the German authorities for the preservation of high fashion in France.

According to Hitler's plan, Parisian haute couture houses were to move to Berlin or Vienna so that the capital of the Third Reich would become the capital of fashion. German authorities at the office of the Syndicate of Haute Couture seized all documents related to the export of models. However, L. Lelong managed to convince the occupation authorities that high fashion could only exist in Paris, closely associated with many companies supplying linen, shoes, jewelry, hats, gloves, lace, bags, buckles, buttons, etc., some of which have existed since the 16th century. This helped save 92 fashion houses in Paris and 112 thousand skilled workers from forced labor in German factories in Germany. Since LShelong achieved some benefits for high fashion houses on the purchase of materials and the right to sell models in addition to the coupon system, the number of clients did not decrease during the war. New clients included representatives of the middle class and black market figures, as well as German officers who bought Parisian models for their wives and mistresses. The collections became much smaller than before the war (only 100 models were allowed to be made); in addition, the German authorities limited the amount of fabric that could be used in one model. It was impossible to sew models that resembled German military uniforms. In 1942, Lelong decided to hold shows in Lyon, where clients from other countries - Italians, Swiss and Spaniards - could come.

In 1942, a new Haute Couture House opened in Paris - Madame Gre. Its creator was Germaine Krebs, who was left without work after the closure of the Alike House in 1940. Having fled from Paris to the south of France in May 1940 with her husband and daughter, she was left without a livelihood, so she made the courageous decision to return to occupied Paris (she was Jewish) and start a new business there, taking the name she used as a pseudonym. her husband, Russian artist Sergei Cherevkov, signed his paintings - “Gre”. The house of Madame Grès, like its predecessor Alike, offered exquisite draped dresses that were popular with French clients. Despite her risky position, Madame Gre behaved defiantly towards the occupiers - she refused to serve the mistresses of German officers. When she was forced to hold a show for German officers, she showed dresses in only three colors - blue, red and white, the national colors of France. As a result, the Madame Gre House was closed by the authorities for exceeding the fabric limit. Then Madame Gre's collection was completed in other fashion houses. When she hung a large tricolor flag made of Lyon silk on the building of the Fashion House, it was closed again, and she herself had to flee to the Pyrenees, as she was threatened with arrest. Madame Gre returned to Paris only in 1945.

The occupation authorities introduced food rationing and rationing for fabric and clothing in France (in July 1941). In February 1941, the first measures were taken to control the use of fabric in clothing factories, and in April 1942, measures were taken to reduce the consumption of materials in the production of clothing: the length of the skirt and the width of the trousers were limited, unnecessary details were prohibited (for example, cuffs on trousers) . German authorities confiscated stocks of materials in French factories and sent them to Germany or forced them to fulfill German military orders. Things were especially bad with shoe leather, almost all of which were confiscated for military needs. There was practically nothing to make shoes for the civilian population from - old car tires, rubber, cellophane, felt and ropes made of hemp and raffia were used. Many remembered the traditional peasant footwear of France - wooden clogs and mastered their manufacture. Fashionistas made their own shoes with high wooden or cork soles (platforms or wedges).

Fashion became one of the forms of resistance to the occupiers for French women. The authorities called for saving - the French tried to use as much fabric as possible so that the Germans would get less. The Vichy government encouraged the wearing of modest berets - French women wore unimaginable structures on their heads from scraps of fabric and tulle, feathers and wood shavings, newsprint and cardboard. In 1942, extravagant hats were replaced by more practical and comfortable turbans. During the war, Parisians confirmed their status as the most elegant, flirtatious and inventive women in the world, literally creating extravagant outfits out of nothing and using bright cosmetics (nail polish, for example, could be bought at any pharmacy). Haute couture models corresponded to this spontaneous fashion. The defiantly extravagant style of French fashion houses during the war was a kind of moral rebuff to the occupiers. Parisian couturiers created models with huge shoulders and draperies made of forbidden silk and viscose in bright colors, and intricate turbans (for example, models of the famous milliner Paulette). Fashion houses offered models in a “peasant” style, with medieval and Latin American motifs (Paquin House). The most extravagant were the models of E. Schiaparelli. For example, in 1939 she introduced a coat with buttons featuring the letter S (the first logo buttons).

In June 1944, the allied Anglo-American troops began landing in Normandy - in August they, together with the Resistance Army, liberated Paris. Post-Liberation fashion continued to evolve wartime styles, but skirts became even shorter, shoulders wider, and hairstyles and turbans higher. Patriotic motifs came into fashion - striped fabrics in tricolor colors, tricolor embroidery and rosettes made of ribbons, high-crowned hats reminiscent of a Phrygian cap - one of the symbols of the Republic.

After the Liberation, Vogue magazine, which had not been published during the occupation, began to appear again. During the war, French fashion magazines did not print photographs (there was not enough film and reagents) - only hand-drawn illustrations.

These days, the cosmopolitan fashion high society moves between New York, London, Milan and Paris. Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, Versace, Chanel, Dior and others have created real temples of fashion and luxury. Where is the extreme degree of luxury, the limit of what a woman without limited means can afford - a movie star, a princess, a supermodel, a top manager or the wife of a very rich man? The answer is obvious - high fashion.

Haute couture, or "Haute Couture" in French, refers to the most exclusive creations of fashion houses. However, not every fashion house creates high fashion. Typically, such clothes are made by the most famous designers - and most often they create them for specific customers. Most haute couture houses produce only about one and a half thousand dresses a year.

Each item from the high fashion collections is hand-sewn according to the customer's measurements. Therefore, haute couture clothes always fit perfectly, and great couturiers such as the legendary Balenciaga (1895-1972) can even transform the proportions of the figure thanks to the cut.

Clients of high fashion houses can be sure that they will not meet anyone else wearing the same dress. Haute Couture is the highest form of international fashion, akin to art. High fashion creators can adapt their ideas to the requirements of a specific customer. By the way, clients of high fashion houses often have the chance to personally meet star couturiers, and also receive invitations to attend Paris Fashion Week as spectators, which take place twice a year - in January and July.

Paris - the center of haute couture

Since the days of the extravagant court of King Louis XIV, French fashion trends have been the subject of intense attention throughout the rest of Europe. Later, in the 18th century, Rose Bertin became famous, the "Minister of Fashion" at the court of Marie Antoinette, the queen's milliner, who is considered the first famous French fashion designer. It was from then on that dresses from Paris began to appear in London, Venice, Vienna, St. Petersburg and Constantinople. The unique Parisian elegance has created a reputation for French fashion throughout the world. Haute couture as we know it emerged in the 19th century. The father of haute couture was Charles Frederick Worth, who can be considered the first modern couturier. He opened his fashion house in 1858 and introduced a number of innovations, such as displaying dresses on live models. His clients included Empress Eugenie (wife of the last French Emperor Napoleon III) and Princess Metternich (wife of the Austrian diplomat Metternich).

However, Worth did not only invent the first fashion shows. He and his sons founded the Paris Syndicate of Haute Couture in 1868, an association of haute couture houses that defines what criteria fashion designers must meet in order to bear the proud title of couturier. Nowadays, the term haute couture is defined by the French authorities and has a number of precise criteria. Therefore, only a narrow circle of fashion houses can be called haute couture houses. Every year their list is determined by the Parisian Haute Couture Syndicate.

To be considered haute couture, a fashion house must have a staff of at least twenty people. He must present collections of at least thirty-five ensembles to the press twice a year in Paris. Moreover, the collection should include both daytime and evening wear. Obviously, fulfilling and maintaining all these criteria makes creating a haute couture house a very prestigious, but very difficult undertaking.

What is unique about high fashion?

Who are the clients of haute couture houses? High fashion houses rarely talk about their clients, which is quite fair. However, we know that in the past their clients included the stars of the great era of cinema: Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Romy Schneider, Greta Garbo, Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor. And also members of the royal families - Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco, queens of Belgium, Denmark, Spain and Thailand, Arab princesses - the list is very long. Nowadays, the clientele of fashion houses is replenished by pop stars such as Madonna or Jennifer Lopez, as well as women from industrial and financial empires such as Onassis, Getty, Thyssen, and the Rothschilds.

There is also a reverse connection - in haute couture clothes a woman feels like a truly important person. It is important for top managers, female politicians and other serious ladies to look elegant and presentable, as well as to feel good and confident. And what could be better for self-confidence than perfectly tailored clothes, the work of one of the top designers?

High fashion in practice

Each piece of haute couture requires a lot of work to create. For example, it takes one hundred to one hundred and fifty hours of work to sew a day suit, and an evening dress with embroidery it can take a thousand hours. The process of creating clothes becomes a real art. So, for example, Karl Lagerfeld, couturier of the house of Chanel, first draws a sketch, then patterns are made from it, according to which first a draft version of clothing (toile) is sewn from simple fabric, and only after that the real clothes are made, and at least two fittings are carried out. For regular customers, Chanel keeps special personal mannequins made according to the client's measurements.

For modern successful woman there are many reasons to turn to the most luxurious fashion. After all, there are many special occasions in life for which haute couture clothing is suitable: a wedding, an anniversary, receiving awards, a theater premiere, a ball, attending official events, and so on.

Modern French great fashion houses

The Duchess of Windsor, Mrs. Wallis Simpson, married King Edward VIII in 1937 wearing a dress from the French fashion house Mainbocher. The Spanish Princess Alcantara wore a Lanvin dress to her wedding. Wedding Dress Belgian Queen Fabiola was made by Balenciaga in 1960. Many great fashion designers, such as Manbocker, Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet, Robbert Piget, Elsa Schiaparelli and others, have already left this world. Others, such as Balenciaga, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus and Thierry Mugler, retired from high fashion. But other great houses such as Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier continue to exist and develop.