Turn-down collar without stand. Stand collar patterns. Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not ruin the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar.

And it’s not even so important whether a woman’s shirt or a men’s shirt is the same – the construction is the same.

According to different methods, of course, it differs, but this construction (EMCO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Constructing a collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Rack height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

It is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. We continue the L-B line up and put it from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars.

I continue the conversation on the topic of shirts. Let's create patterns for shirt-type turn-down collars. There are many such collars, but today we will look at some of them. Namely, collars with a cutting stand.

First option

Construction of a cut-off collar begins in the same way as construction of a collar, with a snug fit to the neck.

Draw a right angle with the vertex at point O. Up vertically we put a segment equal to the height of the stand and set point B. OB = 2.5 - 4 cm.

To the right, horizontally we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product. The length of the neck of the product is equal to the sum of the length of the front neck (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2). I show these segments with arrows in the figure ↓

Segment OO1 = OA / 3.

Then, from point O1, through point A1, we will draw an arc upward. On this arc we measure the segment A1A2 = OB – 1 cm. We connect points O1 and A2 with a straight line, on which we restore the perpendicular from point A2 upward. A2A3 = stand height = 3 – 4 cm.

Segment A2A4 = A1A. The perpendicular A4A5 is also equal to the height of the stand.

We divide the segment A2O1 in half, put point 1. From point 1 we lower a perpendicular equal to 0.5 - 1 cm and get point 2.

The line for stitching the stand into the neck passes through points O, O1, 2, A4, A2. The rounded edge of the post passes through points A2 and A5. The line connecting the stand with the collar passes through points B and A5 in a smooth line running parallel to the stitching line.

The stand is built, let's start building the collar flap.

To do this, draw a perpendicular from point A5 to the continuation of line OB and get point O2. From the resulting point upward, we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar, equal to 6 - 7 cm, and place point B1.

О2В1 = 6 – 7 cm.

Let's connect points B1 and A5 with a straight line. From the center of the resulting segment, we restore the perpendicular upwards 1 - 2 cm. Segment 3-4 = 1 - 2 cm. Let's draw a smooth line on the turn-down part of the collar through points B1, 4, A5.

To design the line of departure of the collar, we restore the perpendicular from point A5 to line A5B1. Segment A5A6 = B1B2 + 1.5 cm. Connect points B2 and A6 with a smooth curve, extending it from point A6 by 1.5 - 3.5 cm.

A6A7 = 1.5 – 3.5 cm (depending on the desired collar shape).

We connect point A7 to point A5, thus obtaining the line of the end of the collar. Corner A6, A7, A5 can be rounded if this is provided for by the style.

Second option

The difference between the second option is that the stand does not have a fastener with a button or button, and the ends of the stand either converge at one point, coinciding with the middle point of the side of the product, or are spaced apart by the width of the side or strip.

We begin constructing the collar pattern, as usual, by constructing a right angle at point O.

From point O upward we lay off a segment OB equal to the height of the stand (2 - 4 cm).

From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product minus 1 cm. That is, the sum of the length of the neck of the shelf (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2) minus 1 cm. And from point A up vertically we lay off the segment AA1 = OB + 1 cm.

Segment OO1 = OA / 3. Connect points O1 and A1 with a straight line. From the middle of the segment O1A1, point 1, lower the perpendicular = 1 cm down and place point 2.

We will form the line for stitching the stand into the neck with a smooth curve, connecting points O, O1, 2, A1.

We draw the line connecting the stand with the collar in a smooth curve through points B and A1, making a deflection in the middle of 0.3 cm. Segment 3-4 = 0.3 cm.

To construct the departure of the collar, connect point A1 with straight line OB at point O2 with a straight horizontal line.

From point O2 up vertically we plot the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. In this case, it is equal to 7 - 12 cm. O2B1 = 7 - 12 cm.

We connect Points B1 and A1 with a straight line. And we put 2 cm from point A1 onto this straight line, we get point A2.

From the middle of segment B1A2, point C, we restore the perpendicular upward. On this perpendicular we mark the segment CC1 = 2 cm, and the segment C1C2 = B1B2 + 1 cm.

We connect points B1, C1, A2 with a smooth curve, which is the connection line between the collar and the stand.

We also connect point B2 to point C2 with a smooth curve, continuing it to point A3. The location of point A3 is arbitrary, in accordance with the style of the collar.

Connect point A2 to point A3. Corner C2A3A2 can be rounded if this matches the style of your product.

I hope my instructions were clear, but if you still have questions, I will be happy to answer them! Write comments and share with like-minded crafters.

© Olga Marizina

Collars are very diverse in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. In this case, the stand can be either cut-off or one-piece with a flyaway. The stance and departure are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, so depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straightened or straight line increases the degree of fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To draw a collar drawing, you need to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We select it according to the model depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For high-stand collars, take smaller values; for flat-lying collars with a low stand, take larger values.

The neck line in products is formed either along the line of the base of the neck, or widens or deepens depending on the model features. The widening of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the designed collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neckline of the front and back (measured along the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of sewing in the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight line of stitching, more - with a curved line).

3. Up vertically from point O, the amount of rise in the middle of the collar is plotted (from the table): OB = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

5. Using a smooth line, draw the line for sewing in the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width along the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from A to segment BA: AA 1 = BB 1 = 8-10 cm.

7. Connect straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 = 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of segments B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular measuring 1-1.5 cm.

9. Using a smooth curve coming out from point B 1 at a right angle to segment OB 1, form the take-off cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight line A to A 2

Pattern of a turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Thanks to the detachable stand, such a collar ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar fits closer to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

On the new front neckline, mark the point where the side is ledged at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the shoulder point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From point O, move up:

• collar stand height – 3.5 cm,
• collar cut-off height – 4 cm,
• position of the collar stand inflection line – 0.5 cm,
• collar width – 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, put 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point, put 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw a vertical upward onto which to mark an arc from B with a radius of 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Design the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with Fig. The cut line of the stand begins at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the seam line connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the collar stitching section to the collar flap section.

9. Place the sections of the collar and stand along the cut lines on top of each other by 0.3 cm at the joint seam sections. Along the midline, the collar and stand-up should also be narrowed.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand

1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point O.

2. From point O, lay a horizontal segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, set aside the size of the collar shoulder, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (the allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: OB = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From point O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Draw up a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The size of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A, a perpendicular upward is restored to straight line OA, on which a segment equal to the height of the stand is laid: AA 2 = BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Shape the protrusion of the stand with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 is continued to the right 1-4 cm and placed in B 3.

A 3 B 3 = 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 with B 3 and extend it upward. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 = 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm to the right of the starting point A.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm.

3. Connect A straight to A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skidding).

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm.

4. Section AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downwards.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by about.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve for the stitching line of the stand through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars are restored upward to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid.

A 2 A 5 = A 3 A 6 = 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and from the middle of the segment restore a downward perpendicular of 1 cm in size.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is designed with a rounded line.

9. The line for sewing the collar into the stand is designed with the same bend as the upper cut of the stand.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up, lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 = A 4 ​​V.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar width: B 1 B 2 = 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2 draw a horizontal line to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5 is designated B 3.

12. From B 3 in a straight line, set aside 1-5 cm.

B 3 B 4 = 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it upward and put 9-14 cm on it from A 5.

A 5 B 5 = 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of a smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a high cutting stand

The high stand of this strictly shaped collar is fastened end-to-end at the center front line with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the modified neck of the product is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar rise.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upward and from the resulting point B, draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Form the sections of the collar stand as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper edge of the stand. From this point, draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, and from the last point draw a vertical line up.

8. Design the collar sections in accordance with the drawing.

Construction of collar patterns- this is a vast topic, the beginning of which I want to start with the simplest collar, namely, a stand-up collar with a side fastening to the top.

This type of collar has become widespread due to its simplicity of construction and classic shape.

Such collars are sewn on almost all types of clothing - from blouses to coats.

According to the principle of constructing a pattern drawing, collars are divided into three groups:

1 - Standing: standing-turn-down and turn-down with the side fastening to the top and open.

2 - Turn-down for products with open sides.

3 - Flat-lying (undercut).

Stand-up collars with side fastening to the top (EMKO method):

2. From point O upward, set aside 1.5 - 10 cm (rise of the middle) and place point B.

4. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point 1) we build a perpendicular upward, equal to 1 - 2.5 cm (depending on the rise of the OB) - point 2.
The greater the rise, the greater the deflection at point 1.

5. Draw the stitching line in a smooth curve through points B, 2 and A.

6. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

7. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

8. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

9. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

10. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

11. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

The construction of the collar pattern can be slightly modified, depending on its width.

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There is such a separate group of collars as flat-lying. Or they are also called undercut.

They are called that because they are hemmed and follow the line of the neckline, and the flap is shaped according to the model.

The principle of their construction is the same - it depends on the neck.

I will show this below with an example.

The construction of flat collars is carried out using the EMKO method.

To construct the collar, we combine the patterns of the back and front along the shoulder lines so that the top of the back neck (point A2) coincides with the top of the front neck (point A4), and the top points of the armholes P1 and P5 overlap each other by 1 - 1.5 cm.

With a greater approach, we increase the rise of the stand, constructing the collar with closed darts and shoulder lines.

The stitching line of the collar follows the line of the back and front neckline.

The width of the collar at the back and at the ends, the shape of the flap is designed according to the model.

The variety of flat collars is achieved through different neck cuts and the shape of the collar flap.

There is one such collar that looks majestic and beautiful, and is simple to the point of disgrace.

This collar is a one-piece stand-up collar with a bodice and a dart.

You can use it like blouses And dresses, and on jackets And coat.

Especially often such a collar is built on wedding bolero.

This type of stand is built on an extended neck.

Neck extension:

A2-O (right) = A4-C (left) = 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

To build the back, connect point A to point O with a straight line.

From point A and point O to the straight line O-A, we restore perpendiculars upwards, on which we plot the height of the stand:

A-O1 = O-O2 = 3 - 4.5 cm.

We connect points O1 and O2 with a smooth line, and smoothly transfer point O2 to the shoulder line.

If the middle of the back is intact, then point O2 is shifted to the right by the amount O1-O11, and the resulting point O21 is smoothly connected to the shoulder line.

We take the excess width of the neck into the dart along the neck. The shape of the dart and its location are determined by the model and body type.

In general, the dart is located in the middle of the distance A-O, its opening is approximately 1 cm, length = two heights of the stand.

When constructing the front stand, we connect point C and point A5 (A6) with a straight line, and from points C and A5 (A6) we restore perpendiculars, on which we plot the height of the stand and get points C1 and C2.

We connect point C1 to point C2 with a smooth line - the upper cut of the front post.

If the front is solid, then we draw its center line vertically, and we design the neckline in the same way as on the back, with C1-C11 = C2-C21.

We take the excess width of the front neck into a dart (we design it in the same way as on the back).

You can make a tuck, or you can do without it.

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In one of the previous posts I talked about collar on a recessed neck in a product with a fastener .

In the same post I want to talk about building a similar collar, but without a front fastener.

This collar differs from the previous one in that it contains no stand- it lies flat on the back.

Although... you can modify this pattern and add a stand along the back - this is also possible.

But that’s not about that now.

Construction of a collar on a recessed neckline in a product without a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. From point A5 downwards we set aside the size of the neck recess A5-L - according to the model.

2. Connect point A4 with point L.

3. From point A4 upwards, along the continuation of the straight line L-A4, set aside the length of the back neck - place point B.

4. From point A4, with a radius equal to:
R = A4-B to the right we draw an arc on which we set aside the height of the stand B-B1 = 2 - 2.5 cm.

We connect point B1 with point A4, and restore the perpendicular from point B1 to the left.
We set aside the width of the collar at the back B1-B2, which is equal to twice the height of the stand (which is 1 - 1.5 cm), which means:

B1B2 = 2 * stand height + (1 - 1.5 cm) = 5 - 6.5 cm

5. Lengthen the collar along the flight.
B2-B3 = 1 cm
We connect point B3 with point B1 and continue this line 0.5 cm to the right - put point B4.

6. Draw a line for sewing the collar into the neckline:

a) Connect point A4 to point B4 with a smooth line.
b) Divide the segment V-L in half - put point B5.
c) To the left of point B5 we restore a perpendicular along which we lay a segment equal to B5-B6 = 1.5 cm
d) Through points B4, A4, B6, L we draw a line for sewing the collar into the neck.

7. We design the departure line according to the model.

You can get such a cute little collar:

There is such a wonderful collar like turn-down collar with recessed neck with clasp.

This is what we will talk about in today’s post.

What's good about him?

Yes, it’s not noticeable in anything special, it’s just that there’s this collar, and I’d like to tell you a little about it.

You can’t see him as often as, for example, english collar, but not that rare either.

The collar looks better on thick fabric.

It stands up a little at the back, but is flat towards the front.

These collars look great on blouses and dresses.

Construction of a turn-down collar on a recessed neck with a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. Lower the neck A5-A6 = 10 - 13 cm.

2. Connect point A6 to point A4 with a straight line.

3. Divide the segment A4-A6 in half, the division point is a.

4. Deflection in the middle of the segment A4-A6 to the right and left by 1.5 cm.

a-a1 (left) = 1.5 cm
a-a2 (right) = 1.5 cm

5. We continue the line A6-a1-A4 upward and set aside the length of the back neckline from point A4, and place point Z1.

6. From point A4 draw an arc to the left, with a radius equal to:
R = A4-Z1

7. We set aside 3.5 - 5 cm in an arc to the left, and put point Z2.

8. We draw the stitching line through points Z2, A4, a2, A6.

9. Z2-Z4 - collar width according to the model.

10. We design the departure line and ends of the collar according to the model.

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Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

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Below is described constructing a turn-down collar pattern with a slight rise in the middle.

It is built almost the same way as this collar.

And they are very similar in appearance.

There is only one small distinguishing feature - they have different stand rises.

Such a collar is sewn on in the same way as that one on almost any type of clothing. Only now, probably, in a coat less often.

The construction of a turn-down collar (EMKO method) looks like this:

We design the stitching line with a slight convexity towards the ends of the collar.

1. Draw a right angle with its vertex at point O.

2. From point O, set aside 2 cm upward (rise of the middle) and place point B.

3. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

4. Connect points A and B with a straight line.
We divide this line into three equal parts: AA1 = BB = AB/3

5. Aa = AA1/2

6. From points (c) and (a) we draw perpendiculars.
From point a downwards along the perpendicular we lay off 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
From point B up perpendicular we set aside 0.4 - 0.5 cm.

7. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

8. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

9. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

10. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

11. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 0.5 cm.

12. Draw the stitching line in a smooth curve through points B, b1, A1, a1 and A.

And the turn-down collar pattern looks like this:

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I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt .

Below is a pattern of perhaps the most common collar - shirt collar.

And it’s not even so important whether a woman’s shirt or a men’s shirt is the same – the construction is the same.

According to different methods, of course, it differs, but this construction (EMCO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Constructing a collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not spoil the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Rack height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. We continue the L-B line up and put it from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars:

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Women's collars can be of completely different shapes and contents.

For different types of clothing and for different fabrics. For each you can find a collar, as they say, “your own.”

Somehow earlier I wrote about collar collar. The pattern of which was a simple rectangle.

This was the simplest collar.

Not long ago I found so many women's cowl collars that my eyes lit up!

So many ideas! So many models!

These collars are more suitable for soft, easily draped fabrics. Preferably not very wrinkled, but better yet, not wrinkled at all.

They will look great on knitwear.

These models are truly feminine collars, endowed with grace and charm.

This is just a godsend in some sense of the word.

Before, I didn’t know what to come up with with knitwear. I didn't know what kind of collar to make.
I'm tired of the same type, but this just saves me.

After all, by sewing on different collars, the clothing models will look completely different.

That is, using one base (say, for a badlon, for example), you can make many different models. I used to have a problem - all the badlons had regular stands.

I'm tired of it already.

Now there is something to create and somewhere to roam

Still, women’s collars are not men’s, there are so many of them

And these are just clamps!

If anyone has the same problem as me, then you can also solve it like I did.

There is one such wonderful collar - a “collar” or, as it is also called a “collar”.

This collar looks quite impressive.

We also need to say a little about fabrics!

In such a collar, what kind of fabric is used is very important.

Fabrics should (preferably) be wrinkle-resistant and easily draped so that they lay beautifully and do not cling.

Perhaps this is such a feature of this collar, and you need to pay special attention to it.

Construction of the cowl collar pattern:

1. Cut out the shape of a rectangle.

2. Place the stitching line into the neckline at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, while expanding the neckline according to the model.

3. Stand height OB = AA1 = 4.5 cm or more.

4. OA = neck length

The depth of the neck for this stand can be increased, and accordingly, the length of the collar too.

Cowl collar pattern:

This stand is used mainly in light clothing: blouses, dresses, badlons, etc.

Here are just a few examples:

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Today I want to talk about pattern of a narrow one-piece stand and its pattern.

First, about what kind of collar this is and whether it is a collar.

The stand is one-piece, without darts, and therefore it is cut narrow.

This is a kind of collar, although it is narrow.

It is found very rarely, but there are such models.

I don't really like him.

There is another one-piece stand, but it has darts and is wider.

Constructing a pattern for a one-piece stand:

A narrow one-piece stand with a bodice up to 4.5 cm high is built on the drawing of the back neck and shelf.

On the back:

1. From point A up, set aside a distance equal to the height of the stand = 3 cm, and place point 2.

2. From point A2 up and to the left we draw an arc with a radius of 3 cm.

3. Through point A2, draw a vertical upward until it intersects with the resulting arc - we get point A7.

4. Along an arc to the left of point A7, set aside a distance equal to 1 - 1.5 cm and place point 1.

5. Connect points 1 and 2 with a smooth line, and point A7 with the shoulder section of the back.

On the front:

1. We continue the line of the shoulder cut to the right, and at its continuation we put aside
A4a21 = 3 cm.

2. From point A4 with a radius equal to 3 cm, draw an arc upward and from point a21 we set aside 1 - 1.5 cm - we get point a22.

3. Connect point a22 with a smooth line to point A4.

4. From point A6 up, draw a vertical line along which we set aside 3 cm - we get point a23.

5. Connect points a23 and a22 with a smooth line.

Pattern of a one-piece stand-up collar with a bodice:

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Miracle collar funnel shaped stand presented below in all its glory!

What kind of collar is this and where is it used?

This is a very beautiful collar, but it is very impractical, and due to its impracticality it can be found in few places.

Basically, these are some kind of carnival costumes or simply products intended for special occasions.

Its peculiarity is that this collar is very different from all its brothers.

Differs in shape.

But it exists, and even sometimes appears, so why not make a pattern for it?

Construction of a stand-up collar of the “funnel” type:

1. Construct a right angle with the center at point O.

2. From point O up, set aside a distance equal to 2 - 4 cm (more is possible - according to the model), and place point B.

3. From point B up, we set aside the height of the stand = 3 - 4 cm, and we get point B1.

4. From point B, with a radius equal to the length of the neck (approximately 21 cm), we make a notch on straight line O - we get point A.

5. Connect points B and A with a straight line. Divide this segment in half and put point 1.

Flat collars.

This is one of the types turn-down collars.

Flat collars are characterized by a small stand-up or its complete absence. This type of collar is mainly used in women's blouses and dresses, as well as in children's clothing and can come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The drawing of a flat-lying collar is built directly on the drawings of the front and back. First, we decide on the model of the dress or blouse and match the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For convenience, during construction, we close the chest dart on the shelf, and on the back - the shoulder dart.

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Then we place the back and front patterns on a blank sheet of paper, combining the shoulder sections so that the points at the base of the neckline (A4 and B3) coincide, and the points at the ends of the shoulder lines (P1 and P5) overlap each other by 1 - 3 cm. The smaller the approach, the lower the height of the stand. With greater approach, the rise of the rack increases.

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Outline neck, partially middle front and back seams, and armhole line.
Look at the drawing to have an idea of ​​which lines of the drawing are involved in the construction.
We remove the back and front patterns and continue constructing the collar itself on the sheet of paper where we drew the outline.

Stitching line The collar should exactly follow the line of the neckline of the back and front.

Collar width in the middle (distance АШ) and at the ends (В4К), the departure line (ШК), as well as the starting point of stitching (К) in the middle of the front are determined by the model of your dress or blouse, i.e. you yourself. The collar flap is formed by a smooth line connecting points W and K.
It should be remembered that the departure line should approach the line of the middle of the back at right angles.

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Important: When making patterns, you should know the following.
The pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part away from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without tightening or deformation - that’s it. So that during the basting process the stitching line does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of perekant throughout the entire flight - that's two. And ultimately, to ensure a good fit of the collar, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour
- this will be the top collar. Look at Fig.6
Fig6 Cutting details.

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The share line basically always corresponds to the fold line. Why mostly? Because you can place the midline obliquely. And if you are sewing a product from fabric with a pattern (check, stripe, coupon or just a large pattern), then you are guided by the need to match this pattern.
When copying on the pattern, it is necessary to put marks (notches) that determine the control points of connection between the collar and the neckline at the level of the shoulder seam and the middle of the back.
The last step is to copy the collar pattern itself onto a separate sheet of paper. We will end up with two cut pieces with a fold. Upper and lower collar or aka collar.

Ready! You can start cutting. Don't forget to allow seam allowances when cutting. It is usually customary to add 0.75cm along the entire contour of the collar. If you are new to sewing or think that you do not have enough experience, make a pattern with allowances on the seams. In this case, you will just have to chalk the pattern on the fabric and cut along the chalking line.

After making the pattern, it is better to test it on inexpensive fabric to make sure that it looks exactly as you expected.

The departure line, and hence the shape of the collar, can have a wide variety of configurations. Figure 6 shows 4 types of flat-lying collars with different departure line configurations. You can add to this collection.

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We offer as an example several options for flat collars.
In this example, we deepened the neck slightly.

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In the next example we will widen the neck.

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And one more option, in which the starting point for sewing in the collar is slightly offset from the center of the front. This option is used if, for example, a ruffle is sewn along the edge of the collar. Or if you intend to attach any decoration (accessory), such as a brooch, bow or flower, etc., in the center of the neckline. Or if you just decided so, your desire alone is enough.

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Having mastered the principle of construction itself, you will be able to design any shape of a flat-lying collar on this basis. Starting from school, sailor and ending with an unlimited number of fantasy collars.
Be creative and enjoy your creations.

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