Sewing a zipper into a knitted sweater. How to sew a zipper into a knitted product. MK

Today we will show you a fairly simple method of sewing a zipper into a knitted garment. What will be used here is not a hook, but a sewing needle. This method seems easier to many. If you've knitted a sweater but can't get to the zipper, you can use this method. Everything should definitely work out for you!

Sewing a zipper into a knitted sweater

For work we use the following tools and accessories:

• zipper
• pins
• thin knitting needles – 4 pcs.
• hand needle
• threads to match the color of the sweater material

Operating procedure

Please note that the jacket (or other knitted product) must be completely prepared, as well as steamed and dried.

Step 1. First, string the edges to which we will sew the zipper onto knitting needles. We do this with a certain rhythm, repeating the knitting pattern. Look carefully at the drawing to see how this is done.

Step 2. Pin the first side of the zipper and sew it along the edge with a needle back stitch. We grab one knitting thread at a time, with the same rhythm. As you work, check the quality of the sewing by moving the zipper slider. If it mixes freely and does not pinch the edge, then everything is fine.

Step 3. If everything turned out well, sew the second edge of the zipper with a needle stitch back.

Step 4. Pin the other side of the zipper. Lay out the jacket on the table and check that the zipper is connected to it correctly. The jacket should lie flat on the plane, there should be no slightest distortions.

Step 5. Sew the second side of the zipper in two lines, in exactly the same sequence as the first.

Step 6. Remove all knitting needles, pins and needles when finished. We carefully check the quality of the seams and the work of the zipper.

Step 7. Lightly steam the clasp and dry it.

That's it, the product is completely ready! A cute and comfortable knitted sweater to wear.

/ 05/16/2016 at 23:51

Good day, dear needlewomen!

Recently I had to knit men's sweaters with zippers. I knitted it, but when I had to sew in a zipper, it turned out that it was not entirely easy. It is necessary to sew it in such a way that it does not warp or tighten anywhere, so that it is both straight and neat.

And so, summing up my “experience is the son of difficult mistakes” (for some reason these lines from Pushkin came to mind), I decided to write an article on how to sew a zipper into a knitted product. Moreover, the process of sewing a zipper into a knitted product is somewhat different from the technology by which a zipper is sewn in when sewing.

So, first, we select the appropriate color and size zipper. It is difficult to choose its exact length. I had to take it a little longer and then cut it off at the top.

The zipper is sewn in after the final assembly of the product, that is, when it is completely sewn. And one more thing before sewing in - you need to prepare the edge strips. Here it already depends on the model and the pattern with which it is connected.

In this example, the central part of the front is knitted mainly with stockinette stitch, and as you know, its edges curl. Therefore, it was simply necessary to strengthen them with narrow strips. It was possible, of course, to sew in a zipper by tucking the edges inward, but somehow I didn’t take this moment into account in order to initially cast on more loops for the shelf.

I made the strips to make them tighter, and on needles of a smaller number than those with which I knitted the main fabric. To prevent the elastic from tightening the fabric, proceed as follows:

• on the shelves I knitted in the traditional way (the first loop is removed, the last one is purled), and therefore the edge turned out to be in the form of a chain. From this chain I collected loops for the strap along the front side of the work, knitting 2 loops from each edge: the first loop was knitted under both walls of the loop, and the second loop only under the front wall (see photo).

We lift the first loop, knitting it under both walls of the edge loop.

We knit the second loop only under the front wall of the edge loop.

In the next row (wrong side of the work) I already began to knit a double elastic band (alternate: 1 knit stitch, remove 1 loop unknitted - thread before work). This way I knitted 4 rows.

In the 5th (purl) row, I closed the loops, alternating: 2 loops - in the rhythm of the 1 × 1 elastic band, (that is, when closing the loops, I knitted the front loop with the front loop, and the purl loop removed in the previous row), and knitted the next 4 loops 2 each together using the knit stitch method (remove the knit stitch, then purl the loop removed in the previous row and pull it through the removed knit stitch). If you close the loops on the bar in this way, its edge will not be stretched.

Finished plank

When both strips are ready, carefully lay out the product on a flat surface, straightening and leveling it along all seams and sides. We align the planks exactly in length and at the joint.

Then, so that they do not move apart during the process of sewing in the zipper, we sew them, connecting them with oblique stitches and making sure that the edges remain end-to-end - do not diverge or overlap each other (it somehow sounds funny in relation to the details, but I think you get the idea ).

The seam is hard to see in the photo because the threads are thin. I had to add stitches for clarity:

Now turn the jacket inside out. From the inside, you need to attach the zipper in the closed state, set it very evenly: so that the central axis passing along the teeth falls exactly at the junction of the slats. Additionally, you can secure it in several places with pins.

And now we baste the zipper, starting from the bottom, with oblique stitches (this way, it seems to me, it is fixed better and there is less chance that the zipper will move to the side somewhere). Yes, and it’s better to do it not hanging. You can put some cardboard inside the product so that you don’t inadvertently stitch it right through and also baste the zipper to the back.

Having reached the top, we adjust the required length of the zipper, and, if necessary, cut it.

Here I ran into a problem: if you cut it off, the teeth at the top are not secured by anything, and I’m afraid that the slider might fly off during use.

I tried to sew the edge there with threads, but I don’t think it will help much. Maybe someone can tell me how to solve this issue?

Here they swept the lightning. And now we sew it directly.

I do this manually. I don’t risk sewing on a machine, because I don’t know how a knitted fabric might behave under the foot. It seems to me that it is safer to use your hands.

We also sew along the wrong side of the work, starting from the bottom, with threads that match the zipper and the product. Here you should, if possible, try to lay a beautiful, even seam. Moreover, the “main beauty” is needed on the zipper braid, and on the front side of the work, that is, on the knitted fabric, the stitches need to be made small and unnoticeable.

That’s how I tried to sew: on the wrong side (from the side of the zipper tape) the stitches were wider, and on the side of the face of the product – shorter. It’s a pity, in the photo it’s not very noticeable what I got out of this - the threads merge with the braid, again I had to finish the stitches in red:

Yes, having reached the top, a closed slider can interfere with sewing. You can now undercut the stitching and lower the zipper slider down to safely sew it to the end. So we sew the zipper on both sides.

No, that's not all! If you are making a double collar, as I have here, with a bend in half, you also need to hem the edge of the collar to the neckline, and its side edges to the zipper. And now – EVERYTHING!

2015-10-17 Maria Novikova

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I would be grateful if you use the buttons:

In general, when knitting a sweater, into which, according to the idea, a lock should be sewn, along the edge (at a distance of about 1.5-2 cm) I knit a path of purl loops on the front side of the product (i.e. in the purl row we knit one knit stitch, and in the front row we always knit the same loop purl). If you already knitted a blouse at the time of viewing this MK, don’t be upset. You can unravel one loop along the length of the entire product and lift it with a crochet hook. If at the bottom of the product there is a 1x1 elastic band like mine, then just the fifth loop from the beginning of the row will be needed (edge, knit, purl, knit, purl, facial, etc...)

What is good about this method (by the way, I came up with it myself and please do not accuse me of plagiarism) is that on the front side (thanks to the recessed purl loop) the cast-on row for the edge is not visible, but on the reverse side a very convenient chain of cast-on stitches

Now we take a circular knitting needle 1-1.5 sizes larger than we knitted the main fabric (in my case, I knitted with a 3-knit, but I cast on 4.5 knitting needles, 80 cm fishing line, ADDI-click). This is done so that the canvas does not tighten and looks neat. Next, we put on the knitting needle the half-loop of the knit chain closest to the edge. Like this:

We attach the thread and knit with front and back rows to the desired height (i.e. when the knitted strip is equal in height to the edge of the product):

Without breaking the thread, we lift the chain from the front side of the product by the outer loops along the entire height of the product and close it in a circle.

We knit another 4-5 circular front rows (about 1-1.5 cm) necessary for sewing in the lock and close the loops with a crochet hook. Use a larger hook to avoid pulling the edge again.