Necklace-harness "Shell" (with a weaving pattern)

Description of beaded necklace

Necklace in the form of a voluminous twisted spiral in lilac-pearl tones. Matte beads at the top of each curl are set off by the brilliance of small beads-grains of sand in the inner part of the spiral. The overflow of shades from violet to light lilac, interspersed with metallic, additionally creates the effect of surface texture. The ends of the threads are decorated with beads, lilac in color with a mother-of-pearl sheen, which are curled into a tight braid.

necklace size

Necklace length - 50 cm. Shell width - 2.5 cm.

Materials used in decoration

We used purple beads with a metal core size 13 (Czech Republic); lilac beads with mother-of-pearl tint size 11 (Czech Republic); purple beads with a metal core and aged gold-colored metal beads size 10 (Czech Republic); grated beads of a pale lilac shade, size 8 (Czech Republic); metallized beads with mother-of-pearl coating (gasoline outflow) of the 6th size (Czech Republic). Accessories: sockets in the form of tulips; button lock; pin pins (pins); extension chain. Beaded necklace is made using black nylon thread.

Like all beaded jewelry, the kit requires a careful attitude.

Necklace weaving pattern

1. Attach a stop bead at a distance of about 15 cm from the end of the thread, then pick up beads for the first row, two of each color in the following sequence (see diagram 1):

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

6 pcs. - beads No. 10/0 or No. 11/0 (three different colors, two beads of each color);

10 pieces. - beads No. 13/0 or No. 15/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 6/0 or No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads number 8/0.

Instead of beads No. 6/0, you can use beads No. 8/0, and instead of beads No. 10/0, you can take beads No. 11/0. The color scheme can be any, you can increase or decrease the number of colors used in the necklace.

I draw your attention to the fact that during weaving the thread must be tightened very strongly.

2. Close the ring by inserting the needle into the first dialed bead and skipping the stop bead. Next, you should weave the tourniquet as shown in diagram 2: picking up one bead and "stepping through one bead".

You always need to dial the same bead as the one from which the thread comes out. For example, if the thread comes out of bead No. 6/0, then you need to dial the same bead - No. 6/0 (of the same color).

After passing one circle, you should go through two beads - the 1st and 29th beads in the diagram, thus rising one row. So, you will go to the beginning of the next row of tubular mosaic weaving on an even basis.

3. Repeating the rapport, weave the required number of turns of the spiral. Around the seventh row, the spiral will begin to twist. The greater the difference in the size of the beads used, the more twisted the resulting spiral will be. If you use instead of beads No. 6/0 - beads No. 8/0, then the top of the spiral (i.e. its upper protruding area) will be flat, i.e. the spiral harness will look different, but no less interesting. Experiment!

4. Remove the stop bead and unravel the first three rows, because. they were helpful. This is necessary so that the tension in the bundle is uniform, and the pattern of the bundle is not distorted (if you start weaving the bundle in the opposite direction, i.e. from the side of its beginning, without dissolving the auxiliary first rows, you can see that the pattern in them is distorted ).

5. The length of the tourniquet can be any - either in the full circumference of the neck (or arm - if it is a bracelet), or shorter, if the ends of the necklace are supposed to be arranged in the form of a chain - a twisted bundle of beaded threads (as in my necklace).

In order to make a bunch of beaded strings, it is necessary, after weaving the harness to the desired size, thread a thread through every second bead of the open part of the harness and string an equal number of beads of the desired length on each of the two ends. After that, the threads on which the beads are strung must be collected in a bundle, twisted a little and tied in a knot at the end. The end of this thread should be hidden using beaded fittings: a metal cap (a tulip-shaped rosette) and a pin (pin). The other end of the harness is made in a similar way. Next, attach the clasp. The necklace is ready!

The description of weaving is taken from the book "Beading" by Susan Golden.

Original entry and comments on

Hi all!

I want to tell you how one of my pendants was created.

For this I used the following materials:
- toho beads #15 and #11
- simulated felt as a base (I took white, because I planned to use transparent beads in some places)
- glue ("Moment-Crystal", "Moment Shoe" (for leather))
- kapron threads
- metallic threads (gold, lilac)
- beaded needles
- manicure scissors
- decorative shells
- watercolor paper (to seal the base)
- a natural skin
- chain, two rings, lock
- calico

Now the process...
Everything starts with an idea. This idea was taken from the song "Ship" by Vadim Larsky. Then the idea demanded a sketch. I had it very approximate, because in the course of work, a lot is still changing, it has been verified.

Based on the sketch, I make a paper pattern, and transfer it to felt, tracing it with a pen (the main lines of the pattern on the pattern are cut with scissors for convenience):

In total I am making three details of the base, because I want to make the embroidery three-dimensional: in the foreground there are waves, then the deck, and in the background - sails and the sky.

The felt has a thickness about the same as the diameter of the bead, so each "layer" is raised above the previous one exactly by this amount, and the felt, therefore, does not shine through anywhere.

Despite the fact that the main colors are known to me from the song (“A golden boat was sailing on the lilac sea ..”), I need to decide on the beads that will be combined with each other. That's why I post everything I have on this topic.

Japanese beads have very interesting shades that look different in different environments - for example, this pendant has such beads in the sails (although it is not in the previous photo - I decided to use it later).

I start embroidering from the topmost layer. I sew on two beads:

And I stitch all the main lines in this way.

Since this is not quite the edge of the product yet, I cut the felt as close to the edge of the embroidery as possible, leaving less than a millimeter if possible.

I sew the edge of the so-called. "American way": 1) the thread is threaded from the inside out to the face, 2) 2 beads are typed on the needle, 3) the needle is stuck into the wrong side again (however, it is possible and vice versa - from the face to the wrong side), but by 1.5mm (~ bead diameter ) to the right, 4) the last (right / bottom) bead is hooked with a needle from below and slightly tightened, 5) one bead is typed, 6) see item 3, etc. - until the entire edge is processed.

Since with this method of processing the thread with which the beads are sewn is visible, its color should be in harmony with everything else. There is no mechanical load on this seam. So you can do even better! To take a metallized thread for such a thing is very elegant!

The processing of the edge ends with the fact that the next bead from paragraph 5 becomes the one that was the very first. The needle is stuck into it from above, then p. 3, p. 4 follows, and after that the thread is already brought inside out through the adjacent bead.

I glue the embroidered part No. 1 to part No. 2:

And I embroider the deck of the ship as well as the waves. But with one correction - I sew the yellow beads randomly, not two, but one at a time, trying to place them as close to each other as possible so that the felt is nowhere to be seen:

Then - again I process the edge, but this time I take not 15 bead sizes, but 11, which is especially important where the thickness of the base has doubled (lower edge of the wave). Further, everything is repeated with sails and the sky ..

Then I compact the base by gluing to it a piece of watercolor paper cut in the shape of the embroidery, but 2-3 millimeters smaller than it. This is too stiff for a necklace or collar where there is a curve to the shape of the neck, but just right for a pendant that should not bend.
Here in the photo - "Moment" for the skin. You can also use "Moment-Crystal".

(And the paper was taken from some drawing ... :))
I stick it all on the skin of a suitable shade ..

I cut off the excess. Now (!!!) - leaving 1-2 mm of skin protruding from under the felt.

I sew the outermost edge with beads of different colors and sizes - so that the edge processing is a continuation of the picture:

Now I take the finished boat and start picking up shells for it ..

I make seaweed pendants.
Together with beads, I collect shells.
For each branch, I take the penultimate bead of a larger size to create an accent.

This technique is "corals". It needs a long thread.
And this thread must be well tightened so that it does not sag under the weight of beads and shells.

Having dealt with the "algae", I turn to the decorative elements on the left.
They need to be attached to the base and sheathed, as cabochons are sheathed: 1) around the shell I sew an even number of beads (size 11) two by two (as the lines were embroidered). I use calico binding here as a base, because I had it on hand, and the felt seemed too thick for such a small detail. In this case, you can use interlining instead of calico.

2) When the circle is finished, and the needle is taken out of the last bead, I pass it through the first one again and start braiding the shell with mosaic weaving:

For the last row I take small beads (size 15).

The thread is hidden like this:

This small shell also needs to be glued to a piece of leather and sheathed around the edge.
Trying on...

And for some reason it seems to me that this shell will look better at the top.
The bottom shell is not braided quite the same as the top one. To be honest, I improvised, and I didn’t mean any special technique. It looked approximately (!) like this (in a scan).
The highest bead is connected to the bead in the center of the shell, which closes the hole, and the thread goes down through this hole.

Now it remains to connect all the parts .. With pins, I try on which beads to which the strings will be stretched.

Then I look for the correct center of gravity.
And with the help of two rings threaded through the extreme beads, I attach the chain. The other two rings are for the lock.

And what happened as a result, you can see from all sides here.

We continue the theme of the beaded aquarium. Today in the rubric Beaded Animals we will learn how to make a pearl shell.

The figure turns out to be a little voluminous due to the bends of the rows and the protruding bead-pearl. For work, we need a wire, 45 cm long, 1 bead, 5-6 mm in size, the remains of beads in two colors.

Shell. Beginning of weaving.

1. We put 6 beads of the main color on the middle of the wire.

ATTENTION: look at the diagram, for the difference in the number of beads between rows. She is quite big. This is done so that the rows "spin out". Those. lay down in arches. To do this, you need to tighten the wire very well, laying rows on top of each other.

When tightening, do not pull on both ends of the wire at the same time, because. then the wire will not tighten.

With one hand, hold the row of beads, and with the other hand, pull the end of the wire until it stretches to the end. After that, the hands change places. And we pull for the second end. With this tightening technique, the row will bend and the wire will tighten without problems.

8. We make the last row with the finishing color of the beads.

9. We fix the ends of Our beaded animal- the shell is ready.

Today was a very simple lesson. While I was preparing the material for the article, I wove a shell in 10 minutes with all the photos.

Necklace-harness "Shell" (with a weaving pattern)

Description of beaded necklace

Necklace in the form of a voluminous twisted spiral in lilac-pearl tones. Matte beads at the top of each curl are set off by the brilliance of small beads-grains of sand in the inner part of the spiral. The overflow of shades from violet to light lilac, interspersed with metallic, additionally creates the effect of surface texture. The ends of the threads are decorated with beads, lilac in color with a mother-of-pearl sheen, which are curled into a tight braid.

necklace size

Necklace length - 50 cm. Shell width - 2.5 cm.

Materials used in decoration

We used purple beads with a metal core size 13 (Czech Republic); lilac beads with mother-of-pearl tint size 11 (Czech Republic); purple beads with a metal core and aged gold-colored metal beads size 10 (Czech Republic); grated beads of a pale lilac shade, size 8 (Czech Republic); metallized beads with mother-of-pearl coating (gasoline outflow) of the 6th size (Czech Republic). Accessories: sockets in the form of tulips; button lock; pin pins (pins); extension chain. Beaded necklace is made using black nylon thread.

Like all beaded jewelry, the kit requires a careful attitude.

Necklace weaving pattern

1. Attach a stop bead at a distance of about 15 cm from the end of the thread, then pick up beads for the first row, two of each color in the following sequence (see diagram 1):

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

6 pcs. - beads No. 10/0 or No. 11/0 (three different colors, two beads of each color);

10 pieces. - beads No. 13/0 or No. 15/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads No. 6/0 or No. 8/0;

2 pcs. - beads number 8/0.

Instead of beads No. 6/0, you can use beads No. 8/0, and instead of beads No. 10/0, you can take beads No. 11/0. The color scheme can be any, you can increase or decrease the number of colors used in the necklace.

I draw your attention to the fact that during weaving the thread must be tightened very strongly.

2. Close the ring by inserting the needle into the first dialed bead and skipping the stop bead. Next, you should weave the tourniquet as shown in diagram 2: picking up one bead and "stepping through one bead".

You always need to dial the same bead as the one from which the thread comes out. For example, if the thread comes out of bead No. 6/0, then you need to dial the same bead - No. 6/0 (of the same color).

After passing one circle, you should go through two beads - the 1st and 29th beads in the diagram, thus rising one row. So, you will go to the beginning of the next row of tubular mosaic weaving on an even basis.

3. Repeating the rapport, weave the required number of turns of the spiral. Around the seventh row, the spiral will begin to twist. The greater the difference in the size of the beads used, the more twisted the resulting spiral will be. If you use instead of beads No. 6/0 - beads No. 8/0, then the top of the spiral (i.e. its upper protruding area) will be flat, i.e. the spiral harness will look different, but no less interesting. Experiment!

4. Remove the stop bead and unravel the first three rows, because. they were helpful. This is necessary so that the tension in the bundle is uniform, and the pattern of the bundle is not distorted (if you start weaving the bundle in the opposite direction, i.e. from the side of its beginning, without dissolving the auxiliary first rows, you can see that the pattern in them is distorted ).

5. The length of the tourniquet can be any - either in the full circumference of the neck (or arm - if it is a bracelet), or shorter, if the ends of the necklace are supposed to be arranged in the form of a chain - a twisted bundle of beaded threads (as in my necklace).

In order to make a bunch of beaded strings, it is necessary, after weaving the harness to the desired size, thread a thread through every second bead of the open part of the harness and string an equal number of beads of the desired length on each of the two ends. After that, the threads on which the beads are strung must be collected in a bundle, twisted a little and tied in a knot at the end. The end of this thread should be hidden using beaded fittings: a metal cap (a tulip-shaped rosette) and a pin (pin). The other end of the harness is made in a similar way. Next, attach the clasp. The necklace is ready!

The description of weaving is taken from the book "Beading" by Susan Golden.

For a long time I did not dare to take on such beauty, somehow everything was scary, but it turned out that it was quite simple to make it, although there was a couple of days of torment with the beginning of weaving, but as a result I invented my own method.
I’ll make a reservation right away how I won’t tell you how to weave the rose itself, on the Internet and without me there are a lot of microns on this topic, there are plenty to choose from.

For the shell we need:

• White beads, 25 grams, and a little golden, depends on how colorful you want to make the shell.
• Wire 0.3 mm meters 10.
• Pearl beads 16 pcs.
• Aluminum wire (so that it bends, but also keeps its shape) cm 30.
• Thin satin ribbon or cord (for winding the stand).

Description of shell weaving

We cut off 9 pieces of wire, 25 cm each - this is for the bottom, the lid is done in the same way.

We take 2 wires and twist them from the middle to each other in this way:

We take the next one, and twist it in the same way from the middle with one "whisker", we fasten the next one to it, etc., until we get such a "spider", or rather, a completely stable frame for our shell.

We fasten the tip of a wire 3 meters long to one antennae, on which we collect beads.
Weave the initial row on 4 antennae: beads, wrap 1 antennae, skip 1. Those. the initial row is only 4 beads.

1 row we use all the antennae - 9 beads, the 2nd row between the antennae, 2 beads each, 18 in total.

We continue to weave up to the 16th row, since the beads are usually of different sizes, then in the future the number of beads between the antennae may be different. The main thing is to try to make everything even and the sectors are approximately the same in width.
We put pearls on the tips of the antennae (except for the beginning row) and, having slightly tilted them, make a couple of turns, cut off the remaining wire and carefully hide the tip.

Having made the second half in the same way, we connect them free (with the ninth antennae, and slightly bend up the middle of the sectors to get a wavy edge. In principle, the shell is ready, but it will not stand. You need a stand.

By this time, the rosette (or other flower) and leaves should be ready.

We take an aluminum wire, bend the tip cm 4, attach a flower to it, insert it into the shell from its back side, fix it all with the remaining connecting antennae, adhesive plaster, thread or tape.

We give the wire the shape of the stand you would like. It can be a spiral, a ring, as fantasy tells you.
Then we wrap the stand with what we have - braid, ribbon, rope, you can even use a string of beads.